The Xemodex

[polskamafia mjl]

I agree with clean meaning different things to different people. Perhaps you could take the time to write a write-up for our database. Other users can try it and report back their findings and we'll see where this all goes.

[fast850]

After just a bit of research I found the product that I'm pretty sure Xemodex is using in their ETM. I am going to respect their trade secret and not mention anything about it. $545 or what ever it is? seems like a lot for these parts and a cleaning but hey good for them. It is, as they claim, a non-contact solution however it is not a DAS (digital angle sensor). As I said before converting the digital signal to an analog one that meets the input of the ETM requires some sophisticated engineering and hardware that requires space and so I was very skeptical. This being said, yes, their non-contact is better than the original ETM. However, I still think the problem is the servo not being able to respond to the input because of low voltage, bad relay contacts(adding impedance to the power supply circuit), dirt build up. In fact the trouble shooting sequence in VIDA lists first 1) low voltage or loose connection, 2) bad ground, finally 3) bad ETM. VIDA also states that if a bad signal is detected from one of the Position sensors a DTC is issued and the the other sensor is used to maintain drivability.

Also after looking at VIDA I found some interesting facts that everyone should know. For 2003 the ETM was redesigned and (2) true Hall Effect non-contact position sensor were used. So any of you with a 2003 that thinks you need a new non-contact ETM, you already have one.

[jadnhm]

This begs the question : can a 2003 contactless ETM be used (direct swap) in the earlier cars (1999 - 2002 ETM engines)? That would certainly be a good option for those people as well if they can find the 2003+ ETMs (say, in the junkyard).

Thank you for your input and investigation. I think you've convinced anyone listening that the first approach should be to clean everything thoroughly.

Do you specifically advocate pulling the ETM itself apart to internally clean it? Is it possible to DIY this? (ie: will we be able to get it back together and working again when we're done?)

Are there any alternatives to pulling it apart to clean it? For example, could it safely be soaked in parts cleaner? Soapy water? Any other chemicals? Could something like brake or TB cleaner be sprayed directly into the unit somehow? About penetrating oil or something like that (like PBlaster, Lloyds AD-2000 or AD-3000)?

[fast850]

This begs the question : can a 2003 contactless ETM be used (direct swap) in the earlier cars (1999 - 2002 ETM engines)? That would certainly be a good option for those people as well if they can find the 2003+ ETMs (say, in the junkyard).

Thank you for your input and investigation. I think you've convinced anyone listening that the first approach should be to clean everything thoroughly.

Do you specifically advocate pulling the ETM itself apart to internally clean it? Is it possible to DIY this? (ie: will we be able to get it back together and working again when we're done?)

Are there any alternatives to pulling it apart to clean it? For example, could it safely be soaked in parts cleaner? Soapy water? Any other chemicals? Could something like brake or TB cleaner be sprayed directly into the unit somehow? About penetrating oil or something like that (like PBlaster, Lloyds AD-2000 or AD-3000)?

Do not take the ETM apart. The ends caps are potted and solder joints are in the potting compound. It is not meant to be taken apart. Don't soak it in anything, although there are seals, the seals are old. I have taken more pics you can see here

http://volvoforums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=632

if you look at the one of the shaft and armature you'll see one of the shaft o-rings. It is rubber, there is one on each side of the shaft, rubber has a high coefficient of friction when it is dry. So I'd remove the ETM from the intake manifold. and use carb cleaner to clean the thoat, plate, shaft and around the holes that the shaft goes into and where the o-rings are. Then use a small amount of thin, full synthetic oil on a Qtip to work some oil in to re-lubricate the o-rings. Then put it back together.

Unless you want to remove the starter you'll have to clean the ETM in the engine bay, the harness runs behind the starter an the plug is too big fit through the space between the starter and the block. But there is a bit of extra wire on the harness so you'll have room to work.

BTW the resistive film in the photo has 105k mile on it and it shows no signs of being close to worn out. look at dry rubber o-rings, dirt, low voltage, bad grounds etc.

the idea of using the later model ETM is an interesting one and it might work but it would at a minimum need firmware changes that only Volvo can do and I'm sure they would be too receptive to the idea.