Broken Shock Mounting Stud on Rear Delta Link

[Ozark Lee]

In reality the path of least resistance in this case is a new (used) delta link. The stud is tapered to fit into the shock and it really isn't something that you can pick up at Home Depot or your nearest Auto Parts store. New bushings are cheap and I would replace both of them while you are there. Possibly the end links as well depending on their condition.

You will need a 4 wheel alignment once it is repaired since our cars have passive 4 wheel steering.

...Lee

[Beige68GTO]

Thank you all for your advice. I tried something different and it worked very well. Total cost was just over $80.00, and the control arm did not need to be removed or replaced. I still need to take some photos, but here is how this repair was made:

I purchased an approximately four inch long M12 1.75x80 cap screw, the same thread as the broken stud. My thought was to grind flat the broken stud to allow a good weld, then grind a taper onto the threaded end of the bolt. Then weld the threaded end onto the location where the stud sheared, and cutting off the "hex end" the bolt to the right length, leaving a threaded stud. The only problem with this plan was I did not have an electric welder, and even if I got access to one, I was out of practice, so my welding could possibly "leave something desired," like a weld joint that wouldn't fail.

So, I asked the alignment shop if they could do it, (Ray's Alignment, Loves Park Illinois,) and said they could do it. Also, they did not think it would be improper to weld the shock mount to make a permanent repair. To get to the alignment shop, I made a temporary repair attaching the shock to the lower mount with rope and zip ties. (It's not as bad as it sounds, remember the mount is tapered other than the stud, so rope/zip ties could hold it on for the four miles to the alignment shop.)

The alignment shop welded the stud and then cut off the bolt to the proper length. Total cost was $2.40 for the grade 5 bolt, and the shop charged $78.00 for the welding. Not bad, considering I was quoted $250.00 for a new control arm used, and takes hours to remove and replace. Also, my car already had the bushings replaced, so there was nothing to gain in removing the arm.

If you do remove the arm, you could also bring the arm into a welding shop to make this repair, assuming you don't want to weld it yourself. I hope this post helps anyone else who finds themselves in the same situation.

Ron

[cn90]

Great info on welding but...

- Can the factory stud be removed and the hole drilled, then use a replaceable bolt and nut?

[Beige68GTO]

Yes it can be driled; this is the method used/advocated by volvomileage in the post above. He states:

"it happend to me and all depends on the patience you have, what i did is drill out the remaining stud with lots and lots of patience being carefull to drill hole in the same exact place the stud would of been, and used a generic shock stdud that is very very close to the exact size, after drilling the hole i inserted stud, the stud i bought had a hex type head for the exterior side and a bolt for the interior side, i welded bolt in the interior side to make shure it w ont move and it stands stil from the time i have done its like new but you have to be careful of angle and size you drill the hole.

drilling was hell and quite long remeber this arm is really solid, mind you my delta arm was in top shape, if it was in a poor state i would of changed it
either way lots of work !

It was much less work and as strong of a repair to butt weld a new stud to the end of the tapered shock seat, without the drilling. Whichever method you decide to use, there is no need to replace the control arm unless it is in poor condition.

Ron

[LamboSE5]

I'm so glad this thread was here just to give me an idea of the trouble I'm in ... I can't weld - so it will have to be done accross the street. But I'd like to know what the "best" (safest, durable, long lasting, etc etc) option is.

[LamboSE5]

Sorry for the long, multi-quoted post. That's my M.O. I suppose...

...what i did is drill out the remaining stud with lots and lots of patience being carefull to drill hole in the same exact place the stud would of been...

I keep reading about drilling bolts out, meaning either drill a hole and back it out with special extractor and/or just drilling it "out". I.E.: Cut of the remainder of thread/stud out, then drill a hole where it 'should' go through. Cool man, If I had a welder I'd totally do that for at least the mean time.
...from the time i have done its like new but you have to be careful of angle and size you drill the hole...

So it's a good permanent repair. Ok.
...drilling was hell and quite long remember this arm is really solid, mind you my delta arm was in top shape, if it was in a poor state i would of changed it...

The trailing arms; they can't be separated from the transverse arms can they? It's what - 1/4" steel? I'm no pro at drilling stuff out yet. What would constitute poor shape for the arm...It's pretty solid steel - what could be wrong, just really rusty or banged up?
there is a topic somewhere on this site going in depth with this subject...

Thanks.

...My grandson ran over the "Grandmother" of pot holes here the other night & cracked the outside weld of the rear passenger side shock mount nut...I rewelded it in about three minutes but shudder when I think if it had actually broken out. Do-able but what a pain that would have been & a few bucks for materials as well.
Hoov

Just cracked, fortunate I guess. If it had actually broken out - you shudder because it could have caused an accident or what? Just curious

...In reality the path of least resistance in this case is a new (used) delta link. The stud is tapered to fit into the shock and it really isn't something that you can pick up at Home Depot or your nearest Auto Parts store.

There aren't any "junkyards" to picked from around here. I have a parts car however. If by least resistance you mean buying a new used one and paying someone to do the work, my wallet is in complete resistance to that endevour - Besides, I'd rather/need to get one from my parts car anyway . If someone has removed a Transverse arm and documented it (not just bushings etc) could you please link it for me?
New bushings are cheap and I would replace both of them while you are there. Possibly the end links as well depending on their condition.

Absolutely, the delta links on my parts car are both brand new. I planned on trying to get them out somehow anyway. So, advice on removing the Transverse arm would be great.
...You will need a 4 wheel alignment once it is repaired since our cars have passive 4 wheel steering.

Oh no, that sounds expensive
...Lee

Just to be on same page and try and get my nomenclature correct, and show what I think I would use to get through it:
850 Transverse & Trailing Arm(s) PDF

Thank you all for your advice. I tried something different and it worked very well. Total cost was just over $80.00, and the control arm did not need to be removed or replaced. I still need to take some photos, but here is how this repair was made:

...So, I asked the alignment shop if they could do it and said they could do it. Also, they did not think it would be improper to weld the shock mount to make a permanent repair...The alignment shop welded the stud and then cut off the bolt to the proper length. Total cost was $2.40 for the grade 5 bolt, and the shop charged $78.00 for the welding. Not bad, considering I was quoted $250.00 for a new control arm used, and takes hours to remove and replace. Also, my car already had the bushings replaced, so there was nothing to gain in removing the arm.

Hey man, that's great. Glad to hear it worked out for you. Personally, I just hate that rust is going to yet again cost me money, time (lots) and just that disappointing feeling of 100 steps forward - then 200 steps back. Time is a huge factor for me.
...If you do remove the arm, you could also bring the arm into a welding shop to make this repair, assuming you don't want to weld it yourself. I hope this post helps anyone else who finds themselves in the same situation.

I really do want to remove the Transverse arm (from my parts car) just to have it for later, even if I chose to have to bring it to a shop for welding.

Not to mention I spent 2+hours trying to get the shocks off the studs and they won't come off!! I've done this before so I know HOW to. There is nothing but the sheer will of Satan holding them on there. Upper mount bolts are off. I heated, beated (beat the $h!T outta them, Pried with ALL my might - sliding around on a piece of cardboard on the icy driveway - until I thought the car would fall off axle stands and crush me, I heated the heck out of it. It's not coming off. So defeating man.

Ron

Great info on welding but...

- Can the factory stud be removed and the hole drilled, then use a replaceable bolt and nut?

THIS is what I would like to have done, if I have to "have anything done"

[850Shed]

Sorry to bump a very old thread but I'm in exactly the same situation with a snapped lower mounting stud.

The fix of drilling the existing one out and welding in a replacement seems a good way to go but is the taper on the factory one essential or will using a 'generic' stud, as has been mentioned, work without issues?

Thanks!