Torque Wrench spec when reinstalling wheels

[tzanis]

I dont know about the torque required, start with two bolts on opposite sides, always tight on a star pattern, and torque them enough on what you think is good enough that you wont be chasing one on the road.

[Redneck]

Wheels bolt into the wheel hub and the rotor is uniformly squeezed in between. I don't see any reason why the rotor would warp from over torquing as long as it is fairly even. If there was a significant torque difference between lugs with some lugs almost loose and some not then probably.

[vjaneczko]

I've always been paranoid about a wheel coming off or warping a rotor so I'll let you laugh at my overkill process for bolting on a wheel;

With the wheel in the air I go around it, in the star pattern, three times to tighten the bolts. First time around it's hand tight, pounding the tire after the second bolt is in to make sure the wheel is flush to the hub, then finishing all five bolts and checking all of them twice. Next, I go around and make them snug with a little 'oomph' with my 3/8" socket. After that, I drop the wheel down and use my torque wrench (set at 82 lbs. for my 850, 104 lbs. for my SR), and go around the lugs - twice again - with the star pattern.

Never lost a wheel, never had a problem. Overkill? Probably. But I'm OK with that

[Sommerfeldt]

I've always been paranoid about a wheel coming off or warping a rotor so I'll let you laugh at my overkill process for bolting on a wheel;

With the wheel in the air I go around it, in the star pattern, three times to tighten the bolts. First time around it's hand tight, pounding the tire after the second bolt is in to make sure the wheel is flush to the hub, then finishing all five bolts and checking all of them twice. Next, I go around and make them snug with a little 'oomph' with my 3/8" socket. After that, I drop the wheel down and use my torque wrench (set at 82 lbs. for my 850, 104 lbs. for my SR), and go around the lugs - twice again - with the star pattern.

Never lost a wheel, never had a problem. Overkill? Probably. But I'm OK with that

I for one am not laughing. I like it - and if it makes you feel you can trust your wheels, then good for you. Never mind that it's overkill. Overkill saves lives.

- S

[scot850]

One secret is to check the torque again after a run or certainly in the week following to check all is good. I did have a time when for some reason only 1 wheel had an issue of lose lug nuts even though all had been tightened the same with the same tools and torque wrench.

I always use a little copper grease on the threads and just a skiff on the hub to prevent the rim binding as they use so much salt and de-icing agent here.

I'm guessing by torqueing with a film of grease on the threads means I am probably torqueing to nearer 100lb/ft.

Neil.

[j-dawg]

I popped my wheels off the other day after torquing the bolts to 80 lb-ft a few weeks earlier. All 20 of them were less than ratchet-tight.

Don't know why that happened. It's never happened before. There were no major temperature swings in that period. It freaked me out. I have heard that it's a good idea to drive around the block and then retorque, but in addition to that I'm going to be torquing them past 80 from now on.

There is, as others have mentioned, the opposite extreme. I had a tire changed at a shop, drove a few thousand miles, and got a flat. The bolt was so tight that I snapped the wrench in half trying to remove the wheel. That was a fun day I had.

On a related note - has anyone here purchased a bolt-to-stud conversion kit? Every other car I've had has used studs and they are vastly superior. I'm thinking about it.

[scot850]

Haven't heard of the conversion kit. If you go ahead with that keep us posted.

One point to consider is the corrosion that can form on the rear of the alloy wheels and on the face of the hub where the wheel sits. Make sure these are clean and that you clean the area around the hub seating area to make sure the wheel can sit snug before fitting the wheel and tightening.

The torque and re-check is the way to go!

Like our paranoid friend above, I also initially snug the 5 bolts up to help ensure the rim is sitting flat and central and then torque to spec (see my note above regarding copper grease).

Once the car is on the ground I re-check the torque again. Since doing this I haven't had a problem and I have 4 sets of wheels to change every summer and winter.

Neil.

[mecheng]

110Nm with a bit of copper anti seize to prevent seizing, galling of threads and to add a bit of axial tightening force.

I believe most mfgs know that the threads are near impossible to be kept perfectly dry/clean so the number they quote is wet; I've never had an issue with any of my cars using this value and I ALWAYS use a bit of anti seize. Even if I lived down south, because of my first sentence.

After 100km of driving, I re check the torque and make sure the wheels are not really hot or cold when I do so. A torque wrench is more accurate than the shops torque stick.

[cuhfs]

Harbor Freight sells a 1/2 in drive Torque wrench cheap. I use it to torque lugs to 110 ft lbs (dry) after having warped rotors from a shops air wrench. The Good to know... the HF wrench is lifetime guarantee. When it breaks, as mine did, they exchange it no fuss - no muss.

[cuhfs]

Wanted to mention I saw some other places complaints for the HF torque wrench when used in areas requiring precision like a water pump or head. I only use this particular wrench for lugs. Its still Harbor Freight which can sometime be of questionable quality. I use snap on or craftsman for other jobs. This HF "lug nut" torque wrench remains set and never needs to be changed and is not used for anything else.