the fan is to the right of an airbox that's white with a black cover. any need to remove this box when attempting blower removal? i'm in there now and having a heck of a time getting my oversized hands into the undersized area so I don't want to remove anything not called for.
i see the fan up there in the corner...lots of hard to see screws.
yikes! nonetheless, I'm going to get it out.
climate control/heater fan
Perhaps this is answering my own question. Seems like the aforementioned white/black box is for air intake from outside that supplies the blower (is this what houses the "cabin filter"?)
In any event, this box stays in. So far I've been able to remove the 4 screws that I can see which leaves 1 more that's currently holding up the show. As soon as my toes thaw out (9 degrees) I'll go back in for the elusive screw (assuming there are 5).
The hard part so far has been removing the sound insulation in one piece. Hard to access several screws if this stuff is not removed. Anyway, sorry about the rambling but it gives me the opportunity to come in the house for some heat.
So is that box housing the cabin filter??
Thanks,
Cliff
In any event, this box stays in. So far I've been able to remove the 4 screws that I can see which leaves 1 more that's currently holding up the show. As soon as my toes thaw out (9 degrees) I'll go back in for the elusive screw (assuming there are 5).
The hard part so far has been removing the sound insulation in one piece. Hard to access several screws if this stuff is not removed. Anyway, sorry about the rambling but it gives me the opportunity to come in the house for some heat.
So is that box housing the cabin filter??
Thanks,
Cliff
-
jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
the white housing left of blower is the plenum that has the cabin filter in it. The cabin filter door is on bottom and has 4 tx 20 screws if they are the originals.
Opinion please. Is it possible that an extremely dirty cabin filter could cause an already rotationally challenged blower to bind up and/or slow down? It seems an abundance of cold air is sucked in and crosses the filter before reaching the fan cage. If this filter is dirty, hence causing a quasi venturi effect that in turn requires the fan to suck harder. Would it stand to reason that the motor wants to work harder but cannot since it's already somewhat out of juice?
My squeaky intermittent blower seems to run better after opening the cabin filter plenum cover and banging it around. I believe the motor still needs to be replaced but just changing the cabin filter (less than 6" from the blower) has already had significant results.
Am I suffering from mental frostbite or might this concept hold (frozen) water?
Thanks!
Cliff
My squeaky intermittent blower seems to run better after opening the cabin filter plenum cover and banging it around. I believe the motor still needs to be replaced but just changing the cabin filter (less than 6" from the blower) has already had significant results.
Am I suffering from mental frostbite or might this concept hold (frozen) water?
Thanks!
Cliff
-
jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
on the xc90 and all the other P2's and newer platform Volvos, the filter is downwind of the blower. It blows through it.
I have heard noises and flutters but I haven't seen speed fluctuation. IF you haven't gone too far, get a filter and see what happens before you put everything back.
I have heard noises and flutters but I haven't seen speed fluctuation. IF you haven't gone too far, get a filter and see what happens before you put everything back.
so much for that theory 
Unit is still apart so I'll take your advice and report back. Thanks much Jimmy57!
Cliff
btw: the floor insulation is over 4" thick with the styro embedded into the foam. makes for a tough bend back so that I can fit in the space. the seat/track would have to come out if one wanted to fully remove the carpet etc...
Unit is still apart so I'll take your advice and report back. Thanks much Jimmy57!
Cliff
btw: the floor insulation is over 4" thick with the styro embedded into the foam. makes for a tough bend back so that I can fit in the space. the seat/track would have to come out if one wanted to fully remove the carpet etc...
I just did this fix. Let me tell you it was 45 deg in the garage but I was soon sweating. Because I was working so hard and secondly from fear. Fear of what the heck am I doing with minimal instructions and fear of sheepishly taking it into the dealer to fix my mistakes. Luckily everything turned out alright, no more squeek but it was tough. Took about 2.5 hours, but now that I know what I am doing probably 2/3 or less. I will elaborate on what I did to fill in the blank spots. I should also mention it takes a lot of back work on the floor of the car. At 55 it was even less comfortable. Make sure you have very good lighting, you'll need it.
I did remove the glove compartment and the knee panel. It only takes a few minutes to take out the glovebox and it does seem to give me better views and allows for a bit more movement of what is left of the panel
I found this website very helpful but would like to add a few things. http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/6sk26-v ... thout.html
The air filter is to the left of the blower and has four torx screws and a flat black bottom. If you need to replace the cabin filter this is the time to do it. You need to pull down the carpet a bit on the floor and from the right side of the foot well. This is for access but you also need to pull the hose out of the side panel area that drains the fan into the wheel well. The hose goes into a black grommet type of thing and this grommet just pulls out. It is easier to remove here and you will need to for the next step
You will see the white housing going side to side with a black bottom on the floor side. It is this that is covering the blower motor. It is also in 2 sections. the first part has only one screw on it, the left back side. It pops off the other black cover and this is the sticky part. You can only remove 4 of the 5 screws. It is at about the 2 oclock position from the front. This tab must be broken off. I just twisted/rotated the housing until I heard a crack. Pretty scary actually as the hamster wheel is plastic as well.
The link says it will just drop out. Ha Ha Ha, it's about as realistic as my kids saying just 5 more minutes Dad. It must have taken me 20 minutes to finagle it out with quite a bit of force. I can't believe the hamster wheel didn't break. I think it was a combination of the soundproofing/insulation which made it too tight and the broken tab. I spent a lot of time pushing the hard foam down with one hand and wiggling the fan with the other. There were numerous times I wanted to bail but I couldn't because I couldn't get the fan back into place, (More on this later) so I had to keep going. When I finally got it out I removed the 2 screws on the housing and slowly again with a fair bit of force, I teased the fan motor out of the assembly. The back bearing I just keep putting on wd40 but the front one the hamster wheel was in the way so I kept the fan vertically and put little amounts on the fan rod hoping it would go down the rod and into the bearings. I would spin it both ways for a bit and add more lube.
Then I put the motor back in the housing and tried to put it back into place. Much easier to get in, but again I couldn't get it all the way in so needed to remove it. Just as big a pain the second time as the first. I removed the housing again with the bright idea I should see how the fan and housing fit back separately. Good Idea. I could see how the hamster wheel fits into the white housing. With the black housing I started to notice the lip of it and how it fits the edge of the white housing and it almost clicks into place. Again not so easy as before it just clicked in I needed to remove the corner of the broken tab from the housing so it was nice and smooth as wellas removing the housing tab as best as I could from the white housing. I also needed to remove some of he dense foam with a boxcutter around the edge of the white housing and some even down the sloping edge of floor of the vehicle so it would have an easier path of insertion. Only when I knew the black housing was going right into place did I put the fan back into it. Much easier to put the whole assembly in now.
Just do the reverse to put it back.
Sorry, no pictures, but hope this link helps. http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/66c2c-v ... -xc90.html
The first picture is the white housing from the glove box. The second is from towards the floor and the black housing the fan sits in. You can't really see the screws, to see them you need to be on your back on the floor looking up under the dash.
I did remove the glove compartment and the knee panel. It only takes a few minutes to take out the glovebox and it does seem to give me better views and allows for a bit more movement of what is left of the panel
I found this website very helpful but would like to add a few things. http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/6sk26-v ... thout.html
The air filter is to the left of the blower and has four torx screws and a flat black bottom. If you need to replace the cabin filter this is the time to do it. You need to pull down the carpet a bit on the floor and from the right side of the foot well. This is for access but you also need to pull the hose out of the side panel area that drains the fan into the wheel well. The hose goes into a black grommet type of thing and this grommet just pulls out. It is easier to remove here and you will need to for the next step
You will see the white housing going side to side with a black bottom on the floor side. It is this that is covering the blower motor. It is also in 2 sections. the first part has only one screw on it, the left back side. It pops off the other black cover and this is the sticky part. You can only remove 4 of the 5 screws. It is at about the 2 oclock position from the front. This tab must be broken off. I just twisted/rotated the housing until I heard a crack. Pretty scary actually as the hamster wheel is plastic as well.
The link says it will just drop out. Ha Ha Ha, it's about as realistic as my kids saying just 5 more minutes Dad. It must have taken me 20 minutes to finagle it out with quite a bit of force. I can't believe the hamster wheel didn't break. I think it was a combination of the soundproofing/insulation which made it too tight and the broken tab. I spent a lot of time pushing the hard foam down with one hand and wiggling the fan with the other. There were numerous times I wanted to bail but I couldn't because I couldn't get the fan back into place, (More on this later) so I had to keep going. When I finally got it out I removed the 2 screws on the housing and slowly again with a fair bit of force, I teased the fan motor out of the assembly. The back bearing I just keep putting on wd40 but the front one the hamster wheel was in the way so I kept the fan vertically and put little amounts on the fan rod hoping it would go down the rod and into the bearings. I would spin it both ways for a bit and add more lube.
Then I put the motor back in the housing and tried to put it back into place. Much easier to get in, but again I couldn't get it all the way in so needed to remove it. Just as big a pain the second time as the first. I removed the housing again with the bright idea I should see how the fan and housing fit back separately. Good Idea. I could see how the hamster wheel fits into the white housing. With the black housing I started to notice the lip of it and how it fits the edge of the white housing and it almost clicks into place. Again not so easy as before it just clicked in I needed to remove the corner of the broken tab from the housing so it was nice and smooth as wellas removing the housing tab as best as I could from the white housing. I also needed to remove some of he dense foam with a boxcutter around the edge of the white housing and some even down the sloping edge of floor of the vehicle so it would have an easier path of insertion. Only when I knew the black housing was going right into place did I put the fan back into it. Much easier to put the whole assembly in now.
Just do the reverse to put it back.
Sorry, no pictures, but hope this link helps. http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/66c2c-v ... -xc90.html
The first picture is the white housing from the glove box. The second is from towards the floor and the black housing the fan sits in. You can't really see the screws, to see them you need to be on your back on the floor looking up under the dash.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 3 Replies
- 616 Views
-
Last post by scot850
-
- 2 Replies
- 1781 Views
-
Last post by alschnertz