242k miles and counting

[jblackburn]

With the hood closed, if you hear ticking noise at low RPM/idle, it is the lifters being starved for oil a bit. The injectors are plenty noisy with the hood up, but you don't hear them much with the hood closed just standing outside the car.

My lifters tick running A/C at idle in Drive, and that's really about it. It's on the list for something to deal with this summer - something most of these cars will need at one point or another as they get on up there in mileage.

Ed did a write-up for replacing the oil pan O-rings.

[boosted5cyl]

I just went with an AutoRX treatment to decoke the ring packs and whatnot. Only risk you run is de-cludging a seal that may start to leak. So far ive been lucky with mine and I have 204K on it. That and some B12 in the gas tank to clean out the fuel system and injecttors. A good throttle body cleaning probably wouldnt do any harm either. Check the wastegate opening pressure (I believe its 4.5psi stock?!? check VADIS)

Ive wondered if a pre-emptive fuel pump replacement is a good idea because when it fails you are ^&6$!d
Have you done a compression test?

[Ozark Lee]

At 242k you are a piker.

My '94 has 250,686 as of tonight (My wife got the "high mileage" award, and its accompanying certificate) at the office Christmas party this year.

As jimmy57 pointed out it may be more injector noise than lifter noise but that is your call since you are on the ground and you are listening to it. If it is not the injectors it is O ring time if it persists after start up. The start up clack is usually due to an improper oil filter.

Changing the sump O rings is a 2 or 3 wrencher and it is relatively cheap in terms of parts but buy the correct anaerobic sealer. When you put the sump pan back together and get things very clean. The bolts on the back of the block are tough to get started and easy to think they are started when they really aren't. Get all of the bolts started before you begin the torque sequence.

This is also a good time to blow the crap out of the sump strainer pickup if you have an air compressor.

...Lee

[Kirby J]

Did you say a Piker? I've got 396K on mine, but its a 940, so I guess that's cheating.
Kirby J

[bguzz]

331K on my 98 S70 N.A. and no major issues to report. Replaced the alternator and radiator and just regular maintenance items (like brakes, fluids, axles, etc.)

[cgreygoose]

can I jump in right now? I'm replacing the radiator on my 95 850 wagon and it has 253K on it. I did purchase seafoam and I also got a can of CRC mass air flow cleaner to spray towards the throttle body. Also, since I've pulled the radiator I did get some ATF drainage but not much. I guess I should get under and unscrew the drain plug. Instead of steam cleaning the engine is it safe to use a brake kleener since it leaves very little residue?

[kcodyjr]

Your best bet for detailing the engine is a combination of engine degreaser, carburetor cleaner, and Simple Green. Brake cleaner is a little too harsh in my opinion. Each product will eat away some, but not all, of the grime. The combination will get it all with minimal scrubbing using wire brushes on metal and stiff nylon on plastic - see IPD's three-brush detailing set. Use plain water at low pressure to rinse, like when you just pour a bucket over it. When you're done scrubbing, lightly mist and wipe the engine with a 50/50 mix of armor all and water - it'll look pissah.

Don't use MAF cleaner on the throttle body, it's too weak and too expensive. Use MAF cleaner just on the MAF, use carburetor cleaner on the throttle body. Since you've got it apart, you may as well order a TB gasket, EGR gasket, air pump check valve gasket, and vacuum tree O-ring, and strip the entire manifold for a thorough in-and-out cleaning. Also order an intake manifold gasket and strip/clean/reinstall the PCV system, if you haven't just replaced it.