DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)

[matthew1]

Thanks for the update, CN.

(I always remember which materials expand with heat as this: water expands when cold (think ice), most everything else is the opposite.)

[instarx]

When using compressed air to push the piston out be careful not to have your fingers in the way. It hurts like the dickens if the piston comes flying out (don't ask how I know that). I've heard that it can break fingers, and I believe it.

[Miltown]

Just did mine thanks for the post it really helped. I have AWD and Turbo so the rear are different and easier to do than yours. It really helped to cut the brake hose first and then turn the hose end as opposed to the line end. IT saved the flange nut big time. I used vice grips on the flats of the flange nut when breaking it loose and then a flange wrench for loosening it up the rest. Also those rear seal kits aren't available at rmeuroupean anymore or anywhere else and you did yours just a few months back.You must have bought the last set. Thanks again the pictorial documentation is awesome.

paul

[Red-Arrow]

I did this job last summer except the parking brake shoes inside the rear disc. I can appreciate how much trouble this job is. More credit to you for being able to take pictures as well. I have a stupid side SLR that can't fit into anything tight.

[cn90]

... Also those rear seal kits aren't available at rmeuroupean anymore or anywhere else and you did yours just a few months back.You must have bought the last set. Thanks again the pictorial documentation is awesome.
paul

Paul,

Did you do the whole 9 yards?
* All brake hoses AND
* Rebuilding all 4 brake calipers

Just curious.

[cn90]

Also those rear seal kits aren't available at rmeuroupean anymore or anywhere else and you did yours just a few months back.You must have bought the last set.

You are right, at the moment rmeuropean does not carry the REAR rebuild kit (PN 270902).
But Eeuroparts.com has it.

[Miltown]

Just the hoses and rebuilt the front calipers. The rear hoses are the longer ones for AWD and are very accessible. I have not bleed the system yet. I'm finishing up the CV boots ( the reason I started this job). If I can find the rear seal kit I would purchase them so I'm going to check out your link to the other site. What I have found is sites will say they have them and then tell you they are not available when you order them. Volvo doesn't even sell the kits anymore.

[Miltown]

Just checked and Eeurope.com doesn't have it either. The caliper is not that bad of a price though.

[kiss4afrog]

[quote="cn90"]Another Note on seized nuts and bolts: whenever you see the metal line with the nut, expect it to seize after years in service.
- Spray WD-40 to areas that you will work on a few days ahead, then spray WD-40 again on the day of the work.

Don't bother with WD40. WD40 is a dry lubricant. Once it's sprayed it dries up. It's great for cleaning tools but is NOT a penetrating lubricant. I love PB Blaster. It works great on Minnesota salt corroded front end parts. It works better than liquid wrench my previous stand by but anything other than WD40 would be a better choice including motor oil !!

If it's really seized in place it sometimes helps if you can add some heat. A torch or if in a delicate area a soldering iron is better than noting. Heat up the joint and then wait a few seconds, then spray. That way you are cooling the joint with the lubricant and the cooling will literally pull it down into the joint. Let it cool all the way down and try again if it's really seized. Saved my butt many a time on brake lines and bleeders.
My two cents.

[matthew1]

Bump just because this topic is so damn good.