Oil and Weird powder on Valve Cover

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 25 Apr 2011, 17:47

So I need some advice. I ordered a new PCV with a tune up kit. I want to get the car running again so should I just put my tune up components in for right now and test the PCV system with the oil dipstick test before replacing it?

I'm going to do the PCV eventually but with final exams coming up I don't have way too much time to do it right away. The only thing I'm worried about is when I seal up the oil cap properly it's going to put pressure on the rear main seal if the PCV is bad.

If there is no smoke coming out of the dipstick, the PCV is good right?

Post by **precopster** » 25 Apr 2011, 18:00

The engine has to be quite warm and on for at least 5-10 minutes.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 25 Apr 2011, 18:04

Alright thanks. I think I will just do the tune up for right now and run it for a bit to test out the PCV. My semester ends in about week and a half so if the PCV is bad I can replace it relatively soon.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 26 Apr 2011, 18:22

So I just changed out the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

The car pretty much fired back up, but died within 15 seconds. I tried starting it back up and once again it fired up. After about 15-20 seconds of holding idle I put it in neutral and revved it a bit. The moment I put my foot on the gas it hesitated (like it was about to die) then revved up to 2500 RPM. I tried revving it 3 times and all of those times it hesitated like it was going to die then revved up. I then let it sit there and idle. It idled for about about 20 seconds and died again. I noticed the hesitation is worse with sharper inputs on the throttle rather than a slow and gradual input to slowly raise the revs. It still hesitates a little even when hitting the throttle gradually.

I think the idle is normal (when it is on).

I'm guessing this is a fuel problem. Possibly a clogged fuel filter? I'm hoping it's that simple. What do you guys think?

Thanks

Post by **Glencoeteen** » 26 Apr 2011, 18:58

I am thinking vacuum leak, inter-cooler hose popped off, ( I just had a ECU Flash on my 98 T5 and i blew an inter-cooler hose of, did the same thing stalled out and would not run. or the cam sensor is crapping out.

VolvoTurbo850 · Post by **VolvoTurbo850** » 26 Apr 2011, 19:00

Any of your turbo hoses loose?

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 26 Apr 2011, 19:15

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Unfortunately my car is outside and it's dark so I'll have to check all the hoses tomorrow.

The previous owner put on the reverse intercooler kit. I took off the top pipe to do all the work then put it back on. As far as I can tell It's not lose. I'll reseat it anyway.

I'll also check the pipe going from the bottom of the intercooler to the throttle body. I'll post up tomorrow after the check.

How do you check the cam sensor?

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 27 Apr 2011, 16:44

Alright so here's the latest update on the issue. The stalling was due to the MAF being disconnected. I think I disconnected it and forgot to connect it back up (really stupid I know).

The car is still having issues though. The stalling stopped after I hooked up the MAF but now the car has a really rough idle. Rough enough that you can actually see the engine shake (Not violently, but enough). I noticed that the coil was making a clicking sound almost in rhythm with the engine shaking. It's like electrical contact noise when u touch two wires together.

I thought it could be the wire going from the coil to the dist. cap so I put my old wire back on. I still have the same problem. The car is showing a check engine light but I don't have a code reader and am kind of afraid to drive it to autozone. Are these the usual symptoms of a coil going out?

All the new tune up parts I installed were OEM. Thanks again for all the help.

Post by **precopster** » 27 Apr 2011, 17:13

Start the car and pull each lead then replace it until one of the leads makes no difference to the engine speed or sound. The cylinder that makes no difference to engine speed is where the problem lies. Do this with engine running so you can hear the difference.

Next up you need to let each lead short to ground to see if there is spark at the leads. You should see a spark jump from the boot to the engine.

If this fails to give a result (all leads produce good spark) sounds like you may have to look into compression and do a wet/dry test.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 27 Apr 2011, 20:07

Thanks a lot for the instructions. I'll try it tomorrow and post back up with the results.

Oil and Weird powder on Valve Cover

Re: Oil and Weird powder on Valve Cover