New Alternator Battery Belt and no charge

[Pauloil]

yes 2 cables attach to starter pos. post. one alt. to starter, the other starter to batt.

[nickdeary]

yes 2 cables attach to starter pos. post. one alt. to starter, the other starter to batt.

So i checked i was wrong....I do have 2 cables attached to the positive terminal on the starter

Try to jiggle the key while it is position II and see if things change. The electrical portion of the ignition switch failing can cause all of your problems and, in Volvo terms, it is very easy and cheap to change.

...Lee

So now when I put the key in II the battery light along with others stays solid. I however know that something is up with the key because sometimes you can pull the key out and the car still thinks the key is in or the key can keep spinning in revolutions and also you can start the car with the tip of the key in and pull it out. I want to replace this part but I'm not sure what it needs.


I think the above is not the culprit though because its TOOOO ironic I replaced the starter 2 days before!! and the car was driving fine before that


ANother factor is that I did accidently short between the Positive terminal on starter and the body of the car. What would this short out. I know it still gets power but it could have maybe blown something?

[Pauloil]

all you did by shorting bet. pos term on starter and ground was put the pos batt voltage to ground if the car was off.
"I checked the voltage between the alternator big + terminal and batt + terminal, and the voltage is around .5 volts" if you did this with the car running, one of your cables is shot. if you got 0.5 volts voltage drop on the cables by turning the motor over during the test, your pos side cables are bad. a lot of the time the pos cable will get hot by the batt., a sure sign of increased resistance and need for a new end on the cable or new cable. ipcusa.com has a cheaper aftermarket one that look good.
"Another thing....When I pulled the B+ wire off the alternator and tested the voltage between that terminal and the negative ground the voltage was still around 12 " if you did this with car running, then the alt. is putting out that much voltage. don't know why you would measure that as all that matters is what the voltage is at the batt. at 2K rpm and under load, and what the batt voltage is 20 min after shutoff(12.6 or higher is normal)

[nickdeary]

Ok I figure out the issue. When I installed the starter I must have bumped the group strap which broke which I then replaced. This caused the alternator to not be able to completey ground to the car which eventually made the new alternator fail. I put the old one back in and voila! Thanks for the advice.

However I now i have a new issue. Finally when I fixed the car I drove it down the street, the car was fine for 5 mins then it started idling reeeeeally rough so I turned around and just got it him. I pulled the code: P0243 which is something to do with the turbo. So now I'm thinking after pulling the alternator ps pump and all that stuff I forgot to plug something back in. Also I had to remove the 2 computer boxes (not sure what they are) to access all the bolts. I have a feeling this problem has to do with me not putting everything back together....

Thanks

[Pauloil]

search "voltage drop" and read how to test the cables I bet your starter cable from batt. to starter is bad, so even with new alt, the current is not getting to new batt.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm