after being constantly annoyed by rattling tailgate and being conned into buying the useless kit on ebay i went into my garage, found some long drywall screws and went to town. 5 or 6 screws later it is so secure and rattle free you'd swear it was a new car. no need for kits, frustration, or velcro, lol (doesn't work, i tried). just choose some strategic spots and screw that baby into the sheetmetal!
trust me
alex
Tailgate rattle
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Fix Tailgate Rattle Once and For All
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
Volvo has a complete repair and new clip kit, so break away and use all the new stuff in the kit.
If the plsatic tab receiving holes have been broken they include or 4 small metal tabs with holes as replacements that go over the old plastic retainers. They have to have sm. holes drilled for the screws but after install they will last for life.
I've done 3 of these, takes about 1/2 hour if you have any talent at all
If the plsatic tab receiving holes have been broken they include or 4 small metal tabs with holes as replacements that go over the old plastic retainers. They have to have sm. holes drilled for the screws but after install they will last for life.
I've done 3 of these, takes about 1/2 hour if you have any talent at all
I've done quite a bit of research on this topic and I took the suggestions I've read for the tailgate and went to work. I did the following things:
Tailgate anti-rattle kit (It does work. The volvo OEM clips seem to be a bit sturdier so they snap into place better)
Insulated the entire tailgate (better than my attic!)
Insulated by the wiper motor to keep it from moving
Tightened all bolts. You'd be surprised at how things loosen up.
Secured all wiring
IMPORTANT (for me at least) Added additional weatherstripping by bottom of tailgate (got rid of the play in the tailgate when it is closed)
electrical tape on latchplate and seatbacks
cloth tape on trim panels
I am happy to say the tailgate closes like a bank vault now and is really quiet!
Tailgate anti-rattle kit (It does work. The volvo OEM clips seem to be a bit sturdier so they snap into place better)
Insulated the entire tailgate (better than my attic!)
Insulated by the wiper motor to keep it from moving
Tightened all bolts. You'd be surprised at how things loosen up.
Secured all wiring
IMPORTANT (for me at least) Added additional weatherstripping by bottom of tailgate (got rid of the play in the tailgate when it is closed)
electrical tape on latchplate and seatbacks
cloth tape on trim panels
I am happy to say the tailgate closes like a bank vault now and is really quiet!
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sstern
Check the latch. I found that the rivots that the factory installed become loose after constant slamming of the tailgate. It is not easy however if you drill out the rivots and install small bolts it will correct the rattle. Be careful you take note of the bolt legth. ( the door won't shut ) plus it will damage the jam area. As for the tailgate interior cover. Buy the kit ! It is much easier !
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voltech1
- Posts: 76
- Joined: 7 February 2006
- Year and Model: 2000 V70R
- Location: S E
- Has thanked: 2 times
The first thing I replaced on my 855 was the hatch shocks. Hatch/trunk
shocks keep door from closing heavy which is why panels start flying off.
They wear out slowly over time and that is why people don't think of
them as the cause. The repair kit for hatch panel works well or the dealer can order just the top strip of the panel in the correct color (4-digit code
on metal product plate-under hood.) Remember if you don't have to pull
down on your hatch to get it to start closing your hatch/trunk shocks are
worn. I have replaced many and there is a large difference between semi
worn shocks and new. Replace shocks and repair panel at the same time
or you can just keep re-attaching your panel w/velcro.
Oh! By the way, hatch shocks also contribute to holding hatch in place
when it is closed.
shocks keep door from closing heavy which is why panels start flying off.
They wear out slowly over time and that is why people don't think of
them as the cause. The repair kit for hatch panel works well or the dealer can order just the top strip of the panel in the correct color (4-digit code
on metal product plate-under hood.) Remember if you don't have to pull
down on your hatch to get it to start closing your hatch/trunk shocks are
worn. I have replaced many and there is a large difference between semi
worn shocks and new. Replace shocks and repair panel at the same time
or you can just keep re-attaching your panel w/velcro.
Oh! By the way, hatch shocks also contribute to holding hatch in place
when it is closed.
96 855 turbo 235k
00' v70r 156k w/blown motor
00' v70r 156k w/blown motor
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Jake of Sigourney
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 6 February 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location:
- Been thanked: 1 time
Re: 850 tailgate rattle and latch failure. Fixed rattle by sitting in back on bumpy road and diagnosed latch not pulling door sufficiently closed and tight. Large Torx head bolts on floor mounted latch ring can be adjusted, but I simply took steel bar + 3 lb sledge hammer and "tweaked forward" the ringed latch base plate (bolted to floor of doorway) until door closed snug.
Year later, the outer liftgate door latch lever would suddenly not release lock, and had to rely temporarily on inner lever (at best a cheesy temp safety mechanism, and not made for repeated use). Took door apart (removed plastic frame around inner lever, then bolts and screws and carefully removed fabric covered panel, removed latch mechanism (more Torx bolts and has to be snaked out backwards from inside metal door chamber), and soaked latch in solvent, the blew out and lubricated inner mechanism, while hammering tight (carefully) the rivet bolts that hold the housing together. Pins from the two release levers push down (note which release pin goes in which hole) and open latch lock and need cleaning and lubrication. Electric solenoid blocks release and also needed cleaning of dust buildup. Squirted graphite lock spray in mechanism and reassembled. Works very smooth now. Some plastic clips broke (old and brittle), so just drilled some self tapping flat head metal screws (drywall would work too) to hold the panel to metal frame beneath and plastic trim in place (around the wiper motor) and touched up screw heads with paint. // Jake of Sigourney
Year later, the outer liftgate door latch lever would suddenly not release lock, and had to rely temporarily on inner lever (at best a cheesy temp safety mechanism, and not made for repeated use). Took door apart (removed plastic frame around inner lever, then bolts and screws and carefully removed fabric covered panel, removed latch mechanism (more Torx bolts and has to be snaked out backwards from inside metal door chamber), and soaked latch in solvent, the blew out and lubricated inner mechanism, while hammering tight (carefully) the rivet bolts that hold the housing together. Pins from the two release levers push down (note which release pin goes in which hole) and open latch lock and need cleaning and lubrication. Electric solenoid blocks release and also needed cleaning of dust buildup. Squirted graphite lock spray in mechanism and reassembled. Works very smooth now. Some plastic clips broke (old and brittle), so just drilled some self tapping flat head metal screws (drywall would work too) to hold the panel to metal frame beneath and plastic trim in place (around the wiper motor) and touched up screw heads with paint. // Jake of Sigourney
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stoutlogic
- Posts: 182
- Joined: 3 January 2006
- Year and Model: 2006 XC70
- Location: NJ
- Been thanked: 4 times
Anyone every tried this tailgate repair kit from FCGroton? My engine is now tight be the tailgate rattling is driving me nutz. Scan -Tech products tailgate panel kit pn# O2075-183126
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