P80 Idle Control slide or IAC 9454745 Cleaning

[jtp]

@OP, VIVA performance and Stylin Motors both sell silicone IAC tubes if you want a permanent fix. VIVA's have cool Snaab lettering on them, that's probably the only difference between the products.


@CTHarris88

+1 on the vacuum leak on the passenger side of the intake mani. The Volvo OEM PCV kit now ships with a small clamp on that connector, so they've even noticed the problem in Gothenburg (I don't think that elbow was clamped from the factory).

In my limited experience with these cars and perusing this site for a few years it seems that MAFs are so obvious when you open the hood and easy to replace that they're often replaced needlessly. You're probably looking at a vacuum leak. The carb cleaner method works really well but make sure you're engine is relatively cold and you have a fire extinguisher handy. An engine fire is unlikely but they are kind of a big deal. Alternatively, most shops will have a 500-800$ machine that puts some kind of smoke through your system so the leak will expel the smoke , revealing the location of the leak. It's special smoke, so don't do it yourself. They should only charge you for 1 hour of labor and a little bit of shop supplies. The Haynes manual recommends using another piece of vacuum hose as a stethoscope to listen around the vacuum lines for the characteristic "hiss" of a vacuum leak. I've never tried that method but it doesn't sound too promising.

[erikv11]

To follow up on jtp's post: Has the car been this way since you bought it?

It could be that the car came with an aftermarket MAF, often when work is done at a non-Volvo shop they don't know better and will put one on. That's how my most recent 96 850 came, stumbling and throwing p0171 codes. A month before I bought the car, the PO had just replaced the MAF with an aftermarket one. I swapped it for a Volvo MAF I had in the garage, code and problems gone.

[CTHarris88]

The car drove fine no CEL and no idling issues when i drove it home ( was about an hour and a half drive.) A few days later i got it registered and insured. The day i got plates i drove it around quite a bit, again its my first car and i was very excited plus the thing is just so much fun to drive. After driving it a while i noticed the check engine light had come on. Figured it was something silly as the car had been driving fine. I was waiting at an intersection to take a left and my car stalled. I put the car in park and turned it off and restarted it. Everything was fine but i decided to just go home and find out whats going on. I've been driving it mostly just to work and back since. The problem seems like it gets worse the longer I've been driving so i try to drive it only when i have to. (the urge for a long joy ride somewhere is killing me.)

I can't hear any hissing when i start the car and look around. going to grab a flashlight and check the particular hose that was mentioned.
So i can pull out the MAF and start the car, and if the light goes off then it's the MAF? where do I find the MAF? I'm mechanically inclined however i know nothing about cars. I'm confident that with direction i can fix most issues myself.

I am also interested in cleaning the IAC at somepoint do i need new hoses for it or just new clamps? would any regular hose clamps work?

[erikv11]

To test the MAF you just unplug it, very simple you don;t have to actually remove it.

To locate the MAF scroll to the bottom of this post, read the captions for the pictures: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=26746 or checkj out the MAF posts on this page: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/all-volvo-repairs

The light won't go off, in fact it will set a code for no MAF (usually p0171), what you are looking for is if the idle smooths out and the car runs better. Basically, without a MAF the car goes into a default mode for air:fuel mixture. It is not good for the car to run it log without a MAF, but a few days of local driving (for example) is OK.

Regular hose clamps on the IAC, no need to replace the hoses unless they are brittle or already broken.

[jtp]

You say this is your first car. Get a relative/neighbor/ friend who knows how to change their own oil to help you out. Mechanical common-sense goes a long way and helps you learn faster. There is a help out portion of this site where you can post to see if anybody from this forum who lives close could come help you out.

[CTHarris88]

Thank You, I unplugged the cable connected to the MAF and it seems to idle at a more consistent rate as opposed to when it is connected. Looks like I'll be buying a new MAF.

Is it a simple disconnect the hose slide out the old one slide in the new one re attach hose and plug it in jobby?

[jtp]

Yes it's simple. There should be two large hose clamps on each side of your MAF. Loosen them and the unplugged MAF should pop right out.

I have an extra MAF I don't mind sending up to you. I was in a similar situation and replaced my MAF when I was actually looking at a vac leak thanks to that notoriously slippery elbow on the opposite side of the intake mani. The MAF was almost certainly working at that time but since then it has been sitting in my garage for about three years so no promises (the temp. reading mechanism is really picky and if it was ever touched by anything it may not work).

PM me your address and I should be able to get to the post office Monday or Tuesday of next week.

In the mean time running the car will definitely result in poorer gas mileage. If you run too rich (too much fuel in the air/fuel ratio) that's really your only consequence that I know of. If you run too lean (too much air in the air/fuel ratio) it's pretty bad for your engine.

[CTHarris88]

When i got the code the computer said bank one was running to rich. Which for what you said would explain why i'm filling my tank every 3 or four days :/ I'll most likely be going up to my uncle's within the next few days as he is replacing the front end rotors and pads for me and essentially showing me around my car so i know what i'm looking at under the hood. However this forum has helped me out a great deal. Well im off to price check MAF's haha. Thanks again everyone for your help.

Thank you for offering to send me your MAF but I have no problem buying a new one. You keep it, from im reading these things are pretty annoying, it might be worth it for you to have an extra laying around.

[jtp]

Getting your uncle's help sounds like a great idea. I have a brother who mods imports and he's the main reason I've been able to maintain my car. But this site's a close second.

Double check what I said about the consequences of running a bad MAF with your uncle or even a local indy volvo mechanic. I ran with that vac leak (same code as you I think) for a very long time before finally figuring it out, but you never know...

[erikv11]

I'd go ahead and drive around town with the MAF unplugged, make sure it is much improved before buying.

No matter how tempting, don't buy a rebuilt or non-Bosch MAF. They don't work in these cars.