nitehawk55 wrote:Thanks for that Jimmy , great overview on proceedure and I'll be sure to make notes and diagrams as well as mark hoses , connectors and the like as it looks like lots of them and I'm sure I'll need to do that to make sure to find where they go.
I'll take the busted engine out first and then the good one . Likely the time to do the PVC service or see if it needs it . No oil leaks at all visable on the doner car , it runs fine but the check engine light is on for the first few minutes it runs so I should maybe try and get a trouble code on that before I start to pull it .
Funny , been several years since I've done an engine swap . Used to jump into it and think nothing of it , now I seem over cautious and a bit aprehensive (sp?) about doing it .
Used to pull the engines in my old Subaru's in 45 minutes without hardly breaking a sweat !
Have a supply of Fuel line, vacuum line, clips...and a supply of those little paper tags with wires on them to label parts...I also use paint markers and my own code (one dot, two dots, dot/stripe, etc.), get a couple different colors of those.
I would also look at this as a great time to examine axles, boots, steering rack etc. without that pesky engine in the way! (maybe compare yours to the donor..if their parts are cheap...or you may find buying entire car makes sense, just to return it back to salvage after 'pickin' its bones like a Thanksgiving Turkey' Lots of cars get sent to salvage soon after having $$$ spent on new parts, only to have others (like a transmission) then fail.