I sure thought the fuel pump relay would be it

Post by **cn90** » 17 Dec 2012, 07:44

Spark Plugs: Bosch or NGK copper only.
Cap/Rotor: Bosch.
Wires: Bougicord

Any other brand is a gamble, bad gamble.

autohausaz.com has them for cheap: plug $2/each, cap/rotor =$60, bougicord $55.

I had similar issues despite new sp plugs, cap/rotor (rpm fluctuates back and forth between 800-1000 rpm, especially when wet). New Bougicord solved the mystery.

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Dec 2012, 09:17

+1 to cn90's comments.

I use Bosch copper plugs they work great, they just don't last as long as the Volvo plugs (have used those too). Here is a good, recent thread:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/15 ... u-running/

Wires are not wires, you get all kinds of variations in the wire itself, in the jackets, in how the connections are made in the boots. You will have zero wire problems with Bougicord and they will last 70k+.

belyle · Post by **belyle** » 17 Dec 2012, 14:31

Sorry for my apparent ignorance. I'm an engineer (mechanical), so I know that there is a huge difference in off the shelf stuff for certain things. I just never have mucked with picking certain brands of stuff for my maintenance items in my cars. It sounds like Volvo is a little more discerning than my old Toyotas...

I picked up copper core autolite plugs (not bosch, but Napa didn't have non-platinum bosch in stock), a new cap and rotor, and a set of plug wires. The cap and rotor are both echlen (Napa branded) and despite advisement to go with Bougicord, I picked up the Beldens. I grabbed those for two reasons: one is that they are immediately available and the Bougicords were special order. Second is that the Beldens are 1/2 the price.

I also picked up a can of carb/intake cleaner and new hose claps so I can clean out the IAC. I'll post back with results.

One thing that nobody has addressed is why it would be running perfectly fine and then just die. Replacing the fuel pump relay got it running again, but now it runs crummy. Maybe the fuel pump relay wasn't bad to begin with?

Post by **cn90** » 17 Dec 2012, 14:33

Next time order online, it is cheaper and better stuff than local parts store.

belyle · Post by **belyle** » 17 Dec 2012, 21:26

Okay, update after doing the work this evening after work. I replaced plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. I'm not sure what the "date code" on the wires looks like, but there was some yellow lettering on the wires that didn't match the other descriptors on the wires:
Date code?

The distributor cap was somewhat corroded, too:
Distributor cap

The rotor wasn't looking so hot:
Rotor

The plugs looked okay although 4 and 5 definitely looked a bit rich. They were still Volvo branded plugs. Whether that means they were the originals or just OEM replacements, I'm not sure.
Plugs

Since I had everything apart, I also pulled out and cleaned, with carb cleaner, my IAC. I followed some earlier post and squirted and drained until the fluid came out more or less clear. It didn't look too bad, but it did take up almost a whole can of carb cleaner.

I also cleaned my battery terminals. The positive terminal had a little copper crystal forest growing on it.

Everything back together, same as it came apart. No problem. I went to start the car and it started right up and immediately rev'd to 5000 rpm (+/-). I shut the car down after a couple seconds. I figured I'd pulled the throttle cable or something when I installed the IAC cover. I took the cover off and made sure everything was free to move. Started it up and the engine immediately jumped to 5000 again. I tried bumping the throttle a couple of times to see if it was stuck. I could get the engine speed to go over 5000, but it wouldn't kick down.

So, I'm back looking for some advice. I was hoping that my car would be running perfectly again so I could drive it to work tomorrow, but that's looking unlikely for tonight. Maybe I can get it ready before Wednesday.

**edit to add** I can't leave bad enough alone. I went out to check all my vacuum lines and other intake hoses to make sure they were all OK. Everything looks good to my untrained eye. I started it up to get a better number, and it settles right at 5500 RPM. I can smell fuel in the exhaust. After shutting the engine off, the IAC continues to run/hum for ~20-30 seconds.

(all the pictures)

ThommyKent · Post by **ThommyKent** » 18 Dec 2012, 13:13

The date code on your wires is the 46th month of 1995, so they are original to the car. Looking at the picture of your throttle cable it looks like cable sheath end is broken or not seated down in it`s hole. The only thing that would make your car rev up to 5000 rpm`s on it`s own would be a problem with the cable or other mechanical parts like the roller the cable is attached to.

Post by **cn90** » 18 Dec 2012, 13:45

Replace the throttle cable ($45 from Volvo dealer).
Clean throttle plate and report back.

PS: BTW, all those ignition stuff needs to go:
- New Bougicord is $55
- Bosch copper plugs $2/each at local autoparts store
- Cap/Rotor: Bosch only.

belyle · Post by **belyle** » 18 Dec 2012, 13:55

ThommyKent wrote:The date code on your wires is the 46th month of 1995, so they are original to the car. Looking at the picture of your throttle cable it looks like cable sheath end is broken or not seated down in it`s hole. The only thing that would make your car rev up to 5000 rpm`s on it`s own would be a problem with the cable or other mechanical parts like the roller the cable is attached to.

46th month of 1995? Did 1995 have four years of months in it? (snark not directed at you) I agree that they definitely look to be the original equipment, and I did replace them.

I'll try to dig up a throttle cable. On a scale of 1-10, how much is it going to suck to replace that?

cn90 wrote:Replace the throttle cable ($45 from Volvo dealer).
Clean throttle plate and report back.

PS: BTW, all those ignition stuff needs to go:
- New Bougicord is $55
- Bosch copper plugs $2/each at local autoparts store
- Cap/Rotor: Bosch only.

I replaced my ignition parts yesterday. I bought local so wasn't able to get Bougicord. Rolling the dice here that new stuff regardless of brand is going to be better than 17 year old stuff with 210k+ miles on it.

I cleaned out the IAC. Is the throttle plate up-stream or down-stream from there? I might have to pick up another can of carb cleaner...

Post by **cn90** » 18 Dec 2012, 13:57

Throttle Plate is in the 3rd photo in this PCV DIY:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=28487

However, I believe your throttle cable is jammed.
Replace it, this is the best $45 you ever spend: safety issue!
Use Volvo dealer part only.

Post by **jblackburn** » 18 Dec 2012, 14:00

The throttle cable must be snagged on something.

Hold the triangle part of the throttle shown in the picture below against the idle screw adjustment - it must be touching. Loosen the cable at the bracket so this touches.

Replacing the cable took me about 15 minutes - not hard at all.

Throttle body is shown in my picture below as well, just after the idle air control valve.

I sure thought the fuel pump relay would be it

Re: I sure thought the fuel pump relay would be it