1997 850 start in subzero temps?

[davolvo]

That is funny. She did pick me up today. I will drive it tomorrow because it is only going to be 0 versus -19.

[QuirkySwede]

These cars are engineered in a land where much of the country is above the Arctic Circle. What you think of as cold is probably nothing to them.

+1
If the car was properly prepared BEFORE the cold hit (thinner oil per owner's manual, gas with iso' to avoid line freeze, tires inflated to proper PSI, battery fully charged, door weather stripping treated to avoid freezing to and pulling off, etc.), there should be zero problems, but it is best to let the motor warm up to operating temp, and then to drive slow and smoothly for the first few miles to let the drivetrain warm up as well. If you're still running "summer" oil, have a partially charged battery (which might already be frozen), have frozen gas lines, or more, best to warm the car first before starting (weather warms up, roll into garage, tarp and heater, etc.) and then perform a "winter service."

Click this for more info --> How Cold Is It?

[alschnertz]

No garage, but I have parked it in between my house and the neighbors with the front facing the east to try and protect it from the wind.

Facing the car away from the wind really isn't going to make a huge difference. Cars do not react to "wind chill".
It may keep it from having snow blowing into the engine compartment I suppose.
But if you're not expecting snow, it won't make any difference.

[scot850]

I agree with all said before, JRL is right that if you can manage without driving, that is good, but living in Canada where it can get pretty cold (in Saskatchewan Province it was -50C yesterday and winter seems to be 8 months a year here) we have the advantage of plug-ins for cars outside and heaters built into the engines. Our old 1993 850 used to go with me to work with no plug-ins and started at -40C, but I didn't like doing it. I don't know if you can buy pan heaters in Wisconsin, or battery jackets. But if you see those temperatures often it is worth the investment. I also have fitted remote starts for the cars that are on timers to let the cars warm up before going out, although now it is been made illegal to idle your cars here. One other trick we do here is add a cardboard radiator blind behind the grill (using cable ties) to keep the engine warmer and warm it up quicker. Just remember to remove when weather get warmer!
Thinner oil (5W30) also helps in cold weather.

Hope you are out the freeze soon!

Neil.

[davolvo]

These cars are engineered in a land where much of the country is above the Arctic Circle. What you think of as cold is probably nothing to them.

+1
If the car was properly prepared BEFORE the cold hit (thinner oil per owner's manual, gas with iso' to avoid line freeze, tires inflated to proper PSI, battery fully charged, door weather stripping treated to avoid freezing to and pulling off, etc.), there should be zero problems, but it is best to let the motor warm up to operating temp, and then to drive slow and smoothly for the first few miles to let the drivetrain warm up as well. If you're still running "summer" oil, have a partially charged battery (which might already be frozen), have frozen gas lines, or more, best to warm the car first before starting (weather warms up, roll into garage, tarp and heater, etc.) and then perform a "winter service."

Click this for more info --> How Cold Is It?

I just had the oil changed so I am sure it is winterized. The tires and stuff, not so much. I just got it in November and have not really been able to get into it like I would like to. I will let the engine warm up and drive slow. How long of a warm up is recommended?

[davolvo]

I agree with all said before, JRL is right that if you can manage without driving, that is good, but living in Canada where it can get pretty cold (in Saskatchewan Province it was -50C yesterday and winter seems to be 8 months a year here) we have the advantage of plug-ins for cars outside and heaters built into the engines. Our old 1993 850 used to go with me to work with no plug-ins and started at -40C, but I didn't like doing it. I don't know if you can buy pan heaters in Wisconsin, or battery jackets. But if you see those temperatures often it is worth the investment. I also have fitted remote starts for the cars that are on timers to let the cars warm up before going out, although now it is been made illegal to idle your cars here. One other trick we do here is add a cardboard radiator blind behind the grill (using cable ties) to keep the engine warmer and warm it up quicker. Just remember to remove when weather get warmer!
Thinner oil (5W30) also helps in cold weather.

Hope you are out the freeze soon!

Neil.

I used the heaters in Jackson Hole, WY back in the 80's what a difference that made!! Are those hard to install? Just curious, not that I think we get this cold that often. I hope.

[rspi]

Some of this thread is actually entertainment. LOL

[rspi]

Here is a link to the owners manual which most have mentioned. Volvo does not recommend idling the car to warm it up. Start it, drive it modestly till it reaches temperature, then drive as normal. I might let mine idle for 1 minute max.

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... 6.htm#4:18

[burnout8488]

As for warmups, don't go out of your way to let it warm up for 5-10 minutes before driving it. The car warms up the fastest when driven gently up to speed. You'll have heat within 5 minutes regardless of outside temp, and save fuel.

Start it up, give it 30 seconds to get the oil circulating and the catalytic converter warmed up, put your seatbelt on, and be on your way. I've never heard of cars exhibiting failures simply because the owner didn't let it warm up for 5-10 minutes prior to driving. If the car is maintained properly, it will act no different than if it was 60º out. Driving it gets the oil up to temp faster, which is more important than getting the coolant up to temp as far as engine wear is concerned.

Remember, cars are built so even an idiot can own one. The start up and go method works for 99% of the population without fail. I used to be one of the 1% "car nut" population that thought I could help my car with excessive warmups, but at the end of the day it's just a waste of time and fuel.

Things that matter: Proper coolant mixture, proper viscosity oil (5w-30 or less), synthetic oil always is a treat but not necessary, thermostat.

Putting cardboard in your grille has absolutely no benefit on a gas powered car, that's what the thermostat is for. The engine won't use the radiator until it needs to. That's where the thermostat comes in. When the engine warms up, the thermostat opens allowing the radiator to be used for cooling. Prior to the thermostat opening, the engine circulates the coolant around itself and the heater core, that's it. Blocking the radiator from airflow only means you're not letting it do its job once the engine is up to temp and needs to be cooled. It will have no effect on faster warmups, since the coolant in the radiator isn't being circulated anyway.

Moral of the story: You don't need to do anything special whatsoever in extremely cold weather unless your car has been poorly maintained and has a crappy electrical system.

[QuirkySwede]

How long of a warm up is recommended?

I agree with burnout in that 5-10 minutes is overboard. A minute or two should be PLENTY before starting to drive. If you start your car, kick on the rear defroster, and then do everything else you need to (clean windshield, stow gear away, put your seat belt on, etc.), you should be go to roll out when done. Do NOT rev the engine thinking it will help, it won't. Steady, smooth driving is the best overall warm up.

One other reason to let the TEMP gauge come up is so the front defroster/heater works enough so you can SEE TRAFFIC. I absolutely HATE drivers who just clean off one small hole on the windshield, leave sides, mirrors, and rear iced and snowed over, and drive their 3,000lb vehicle via their little "periscope" view. Oh, and turn signals? "I can't see them so why do a need to use them? I don't see any other cars any how!"

Putting cardboard in your grille has absolutely no benefit on a gas powered car, that's what the thermostat is for.

Negative, ghostrider. While in-spec Volvos and those with electric-driven fans may be fine, I've driven other vehicles (with working thermostats) that benefited from the cardboard-over-the-grill trick because it was cold enough and enough air flowing through at speed that the motor was getting too cool and the radiator fan is on 100% of the time the motor is running because it is fixed to one of the pulleys, thus always fanning the block. Then there are some air-cooled motors that also can benefit from restricted "grill flow" as well, some cooling so well that if you didn't block some air you'd have to re-apply the choke... Let's not go there.