V70 AWD 1998 VC Coupling Failure After Costly Repairs

[profjmm]

Thanks to all for sharing such great expertise. Here is some additional info:
1) The rumble/grind in slow, sharper turns has the same feel as when one turns sharply in a 4x4 when differentials are locked (I have lots of experience driving old Landrovers).
2) The previous Volvo-only mechanic could not identify the problem over the course of 4-5 years.
3) I have been extremely diligent about tire wear and have probably bought new tires more often than necessary just to be safe.
4) My current mechanic who does European cars and has a lot of experience with Volvo noticed the rumbling on the turns, elevated the car, and found that the front wheels moved when he turned manually with some effort either of the back wheels.
5) At speeds above 35 miles an hour there seems to be no issue with wheels locking maybe this is simply because I am not turning sharply at those times?

Thanks again to all. I will report back after my mechanic tries the helpful suggestions.

[instarx]

Somewhere in this board there is a post detailing maintenance instructions from Volvo on how to tell if the VC is functioning properly. If I remember correctly that test involves turning the front wheels and noting what the rear wheels do. It might be worthwhile trying to find it.

[scot850]

Before you go any further, have someone that knows what they are looking for, check the bearing at the front of the VC housing. I had one fail and it made these noises prior to failing. I removed the VC unit and took it to the dealer and got then to replace the bearing (it fell apart on removing the VC).
I also had then replace the front bush on the VC case while it was out. It may well not be your VC at all. VC's can fail if the car has been standing for long periods as the silicon fluid settles and when started can fry the friction discs internally. This can even happen with new items if stored flat. They need to be stored on their end.

For good used, try Erie Volvo parts or vandsdismantlers in California.

The other pointers the other guys have made are good and valid, including just removing the prop-shaft and running in FWD. Just have the angle gear checked to make sure it is good.

Volvo call replacing the drive-line for AWD the $10,000 repair. I replaced the bearing, got a good used prop-shaft and VC from a 97 850AWD for $300 being parted out. Kept the VC (stored in the casing on its end) and had Colorado Drive-shafts rebuild the original prop-shaft and have that as back-up.

Replaced all the angle-gear and diff oils and car is now running smooth.

Good luck!

Neil.

[profjmm]

Update on v70 1998 AWD rumble sound when turning: I went to a different mechanic and as per the helpful comments on this site had them remove the rear drive shaft. Now that the vehicle is front-wheel-drive there is no rumble or grinding on the turns so the viscous coupling seems to have been the problem. It is now running fine. Thank you very much to all who gave sound advice on this site.

The original question still remains: whether or not to keep the car having done all the recommended maintenance on it and redoing the brakes, the timing belt, etc. recently. I had the mechanic look over the car and there are some small leaks in the radiator hose in the rack and pinion steering, and new tires and alignment are also needed. They also noted that the subframe mounts are quite corroded. I wonder if there is any safety issue there?

At this point I plan to replace the tires, do the alignment, and nurse the car along by adding fluids as necessary. At 130,000 miles the book value is around $2500. Having put so much money into it over the last several years it make sense to keep it for at least a couple more years.

Any insight on this decision would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[deepsouth]

Personally, I'd keep it. I own three 1998's (one of which is a V70 AWD that I pulled the propshaft two years ago) and all three of them are out of alignment--which doesn't particularly bother me. In my experience the 1998 V70 is an amazing car and well worth hanging on to (especially considering the cash you've already invested). In the end I think it's a personal decision but I'd keep it!

[E Showell]

If you cannot do at least a bit of the regular maintenance yourself, it will likely bleed you dry. You are coming up on needing a suspension refresh as well -- at least mileage wise.

[polskamafia mjl]

It sounds like you don't have any emotional attachment to the car and you're experiencing what most of us here already know: Volvo's are expensive to maintain.

Many of us, myself included, continue to maintain these cars despite the high cost for various reasons but at the heart of it we have some sort of attachment to these outdated, stubborn slabs of steel that goes beyond the usual driver-car relationship. We appreciate these cars and, most of the time, enjoy working on them.

It sounds like for you the car is just a means to get you from point A to point B, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that! If that's the case you will find much cheaper options out there. Any late model Honda, Toyota, Hyundai, etc will fit the bill and cost far less to maintain than your Volvo. Going with a used model will save you on the car payments.

[profjmm]

Thanks to everyone for the helpful replies. Here's a quick update. I decided that if maintaining the car is considerably less than a car payment I would keep it for another year. Have had to replace the alternator (expensive Bosch) and the battery. Now as winter approaches in Chicago the heating does not work and the radiator fan stays on after turning off the car. I will see a diagnosis and make a cerebral decision as to keeping the car. Meanwhile, it drives fine without the driveshaft — no problems yet. Thanks again.

[rmmagow]

Do you work on the car yourself? If not, it is going to nickel-dime you to death. Heater issues. first thing I would replace the thermostat and ECT just on principle, order a cheap blower motor from Ebay (swedishautolampsplus I think) and try to buy a resistor used from ebay too. My heat failed last winter and even though the blower would run both inside and outside the car, it just wasn't powerful enough to heat the car. New blower and it is fixed. As an aside, I also bought an ECC, the thing over the radio that runs the heater/A/C but my original is OK. You will never have trouble with the driveshaft out, I'm at 227K miles and have been driveshaft-free since 165K. Snow performance isn't as good as AWD but not all that bad. Seriously, if you don't do most of your own work, consider replacing the car since you have a lot of upcoming maintenance looming.

[rspi]

In general, if you don't fix some things yourself, these cars are on the expensive side to keep. However, at $166 per month, that is not bad for a nice car that has the comfort and convenence of many new cars. A new or newer car with less required repairs will cost more monthly, including insurance.