850 AC Charge Port Cap Broken in Valve

[JDS60R]

I can't tell from the photos because they need to be from the side for clarity, but if he broke off the top of the valve and the top of the line he will not have a full port to attach to once the new valve is in.

Leave it alone for now and plan to replace the line when you can. If you take a picture from the side ( yes I know its hard to get one) I think we will see the top threads and ridge for the port are gone.

If the port still has its full height then refer to what I said before about getting the plastic out by spinning it counter clockwise.

[Bluevanacd2005]

If the piece that is left threaded in is brass, use a dremel to cut a slot in the top of it and use a flathead screw driver to thread it out.

-Spenser

[JDS60R]

If you remove the valve the R-134a will escape. I would wait until you have the new parts and equipment needed to replace it.

[eriscentro]

I can't tell from the photos because they need to be from the side for clarity, but if he broke off the top of the valve and the top of the line he will not have a full port to attach to once the new valve is in.

Leave it alone for now and plan to replace the line when you can. If you take a picture from the side ( yes I know its hard to get one) I think we will see the top threads and ridge for the port are gone.

If the port still has its full height then refer to what I said before about getting the plastic out by spinning it counter clockwise.

It's broken directly at the top of the valve, there isn't anywhere to grab onto the broken bolt. What does a new line cost? I'd assume it's quite expensive. I should probably focus on finding the leak, although it's slow.

[eriscentro]

If the piece that is left threaded in is brass, use a dremel to cut a slot in the top of it and use a flathead screw driver to thread it out.

-Spenser

That's a great idea, I completely forgot about a dremel. I don't know if the cutting head with be too large though, such that it will cut into the fitting outside the bolt. I don't particularly want to attempt to remove it with extractors, because I don't want to accidentally drill into the valve itself, as I have no idea how deep it is.

[JDS60R]

Lots of vendors above for you to purchase/price the line from. Remember you will have to pull a vacuum and then charge the system once you remove the valve. If its not leaking I would leave it alone until you have the line, seals, vacuum pump, gauges and Freon ready

[abscate]

You don't want your AC system too be open to air for more than a few minutes or else you have to consider replacing the receiver dryer. Not a horrible job, but another 100 bucks or so.

[eriscentro]

Hey guys, here's my final update for this situation. This morning I went out to get the darn bolt out (On the top of my university's parking garage). I drilled two very small holes in the top of the bolt and used a security bit to get it out. It was barely screwed in, and came right out! Of course when I went to fill the system, the charge set I coincidentally got on this day last year started to leak as soon as I attached the can. A few weeks ago, the compressor clutch would engage but shut off quickly, and after this, it doesn't even engage at all. I'll have to go out and get another - hopefully the system will hold a charge for the nasty summers here in Cleveland.

[jose456891]

Cleveland??

I go to CSU and I'm an intern at Cleveland Clinic. Hit me up, PM me next time.

[abscate]

Usually the evaporator core is the leaky bit. 100 USd part, but dash removal required.