1993 240 Oil Leak Question

[SmokinJazz]

Following up on this issue with the oil leak - I brought it into a wonderful little one-man shop in the Denver area. The mechanic ran some tests and there was excessive crankcase pressure. Apparently the oil trap I put on (that was supposed to be an OEM part) was not good and has some sort of block in there so no gasses were being drawn out. The oil leak was being forced up around the bottom of the oil dipstick tube (where it enters the block). I still had the oil trap I took off and we cleaned it up and put that one back on and the engine is as dry as can be.

Regarding this "OEM" oil trap, it simply has a black and white sticker on the part saying it is OEM, and has the part number embossed on the top of the oil trap - but there is no "Volvo" also embossed with raised letters on the top. The one I had taken off, had Volvo actually stamped on the part. I'm wondering if this part is actually OEM, or if it is a cheap junk counterfeit part. Does anyone know how new Volvo oil traps come nowadays? Do they still have Volvo embossed on the top?

[mtd240]

If it doesn't have "Volvo" written on it in some way, shape, or form, it's not Genuine Volvo (with the exception of fuses, some hoses, maybe other little stuff).

There are "OEM" parts, which are the original manufacturers of the parts, selling them to you directly rather than through Volvo (Bosch, Lemforder, Sachs, Boge, Continental, SKF, INA, etc etc). These are usually identical to Genuine Volvo parts.

Then, there are "Meets OEM specs", and other aftermarket stuff (URO, ProParts Sweden, Scantech, GMB, etc). There is actually a company called "OEM" that sells aftermarket parts. China will do anything to get their garbage under your hood

You probably bought an aftermarket box - usually they are made by Ramac. The breather box has two halves. The OE Volvo box is "plastic welded" together, basically forming a uniform piece, whereas the aftermarket (Ramac) glues the halves together. The aftermarket box is known to fail prematurely at the glued joint (read up on turbobricks and brickboard). It is better to buy the OE part, if you buy it; but usually cleaning the old box is feasible (much cheaper too).

Run synthetic oil, and you probably won't ever need to clean it again.

[SmokinJazz]

Thanks for the info. I thought I was buying an OEM part. I'm not happy with them selling crap and passing it off as OEM. Their site (new-part.com) looks legit, but obviously they are not. I was reading through their return policy and it states on there regarding the parts that are faulty have to be installed by a certified mechanic and you have to have a receipt proving they installed it - then they will take the part for you and return it to the manufacturer for the final verdict before they return any money. But how many among us are certified mechanics? Its a scam and they really cover their butts well. I would have saved money in the long run if I just bought all my parts from the dealer only. Real Volvo parts are made much better. In the past, I got some cheap hoses that have split on me, but shipping would cost as much as the refund for them.

[mtd240]

Buy from FCP Euro. They have a lifetime warranty on everything, even if you install it yourself. Decent prices, too.