1999 V70 New user, ETS, oil in coolant, and more!

[CamsV70]

... Plugged in the code reader and found a P1040 fault for the O2 sensor. Resetting that code turns off the ETS light, at least until the car is restarted. Will check the sensor wiring first, and replace the sensor if that looks ok. Hopefully that will solve that dash light. ...

Just FYI, that p1040 is a Volvo-specific code and I don't think it has anything to do with the oxygen sensor. Here is a link with at least a little information: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=33534

P1040 = ECM-9300 Clutch pedal sensor Faulty signal

Doh, missed your reply on this. Thanks! The symptoms described by the last guy in that post sound similar. Will research the clutch pedal sensor. Hopefully an easy fix.

[abscate]

Very likely s bad battery cable rather than a starter. Don't rule that out until you get it started and see if the cables run hot. You can also remove them and test with an ohmmeter.

Don't forget to get your radio code before disconnecting your battery and make sure you have passed inspection before disconnecting your battery, too. These cars can take a month to go " inspection ready"

Thanks for the suggestion! Yeah I looked under the hood this morning and it looks pretty easy to access the starter so I'll start by checking the cables and connections. Could very well be that as the car sort of hesitated before the starter engaged prior to this new non-functional mode.

Luckily the car came with the nearly a brand new battery, plus all the original owner's manuals so I have the radio code on the card in the glove box .

As far as inspection ready, we are pretty easy here in VT. As long as there are no OBDII codes I should be all set. I'll need to fix all the lights on the dash before it gets to the inspection station. Looking forward to working on it with my son after a trip to scour the salvage yard for various treasures.

In other news I used a turkey baster to pull out some of the coolant from the reservoir this morning, and suprisingly what I initially thought was oil (based on dipping a paper towel in there) looks more like a layer of scunge on top of the coolant. I think a good flush and I'll be ready to roll.

Took her on a 30 mile or so drive last night and she ran great. Suspension is pretty creaky, but hopefully nothing too loose so I can focus on that after the state inspection which will be due on the 20th (14 days to get it inspected after initial purchase).

Thanks to everyone weighing in here I really appreciate it. I will try to take some pictures and post them up if anyone wants to see the old gal. I'll keep all my posting to this thread for the time being, and hopefully can learn enough about this car to help others later down the road.

I just checked the VT DMV and you do have to have the OBD "ready" , not just in a no light condition. If you show up with the OBD not ready, they won't test you, so plan this in. It can take the car 100 miles of driving for the OBD to go "ready"... And sometimes even more.

From the VT DMV site:

What if my vehicle’s OBD system is "not ready"?
If your vehicle’s OBD system is not ready, the inspection of your vehicle’s OBD system cannot be completed. While this does not necessarily mean that your vehicle has a problem, it does indicate that your vehicle’s OBD system has not yet completed it’s tests, and problems may be present, but not yet identified. A recently disconnected or discharged (run down) battery, or recent servicing using a scan tool are the most likely reasons for a vehicle’s OBD system being "not ready." Note that there are a few vehicles which should not be rejected as "not ready". Ask your inspection station or the Department of Motor Vehicles for further information about these exceptions.

[CamsV70]

I'm more worried about fixing the ETS light and the starter at this point. OBD "not ready" is the least of my worries. Pretty sure I won't have any trouble at the inspection station, but if I do I'll let you know! I want my son to drive around anyway so maybe it won't be an issue.

I can't find much information on the P1040 code. There's that one thread referenced above by ericv11, but the person asking about the code never stated how he resolved it. I assume just replacing the clutch switch will do the trick. It'll cost me $70 to find out.

I can't help but wonder if the clutch switch and the no-start are related. It's a no-crank, but you can hear the solenoid click. I tried jumpering the battery directly to the starter and it still wouldn't start, so I suspect the cable is OK and the starter, which looks to me to be the original, is shot after 15 years and 243k miles.

[abscate]

Doh!! These cars need the clutch on the floor to crank, and that is probably related to you clutch switch problem. If I don't clutch in on my T5M, I get the "plink" of electronics and no cranking.

There is also a starter bypass wire on some Volvos that lets you apply voltage direct to the starter for troubleshooting,


WARNING WARNING WARNING...unlike our slush box friends, thee with a manual transmission must be careful not to drive over oneself using the remote start wire.

I'll double check Alldata on the clutch switch this morning

[abscate]

Here's what I found...its a variable resistor with these values measured across the connector as the lever moves...the four position measurements correspond to the four resistance ranges noted below



Clutch pedal sensor
Self-adjusting.
Position (mm) 0 25 50 100
R (ohm) 1500- 1000- 750-1750 500-1000
2500 2000

[CamsV70]

Doh!! These cars need the clutch on the floor to crank, and that is probably related to you clutch switch problem. If I don't clutch in on my T5M, I get the "plink" of electronics and no cranking.

There is also a starter bypass wire on some Volvos that lets you apply voltage direct to the starter for troubleshooting,


WARNING WARNING WARNING...unlike our slush box friends, thee with a manual transmission must be careful not to drive over oneself using the remote start wire.

I'll double check Alldata on the clutch switch this morning

I tried connecting the battery directly to the spade connector on the solenoid and it wouldn't crank. Now that you mention it I'm not sure I had it in neutral! I better be more careful!

If you find something like a bypass wire do let me know and I will try it out (in neutral of course!).

[abscate]

There is a short thick braid that carries the current from the solenoid to the motor that can corrode and take out your starter too. It goes from a nut on the solenoid down to a connector on the motor case.

[CamsV70]

There is a short thick braid that carries the current from the solenoid to the motor that can corrode and take out your starter too. It goes from a nut on the solenoid down to a connector on the motor case.

Thanks abscate. I will take a look at this too. Hope to be able to check things out this evening after work, although it's so dark and getting cold, so it may wait until Saturday.

Also thanks for the information on the clutch sensor. I ended up ordering a new one yesterday. Hoping it comes in tomorrow to see if that makes a difference. I should also go pick up a service manual for the car. Hopefully they'll have one at one of the local parts stores.

Sometimes I wonder why I don't just pay a little more for a car and not have to fiddle around with it for hours.

[CamsV70]

There is a short thick braid that carries the current from the solenoid to the motor that can corrode and take out your starter too. It goes from a nut on the solenoid down to a connector on the motor case.

This was exactly what went wrong. This short braid was almost totally corroded. Ended up replacing the starter since the old one was likely original. Cranks over and starts perfectly now. Thanks to all for the advice.

New clutch pedal sensor should be in on Tuesday. Hoping that cures the ETS light on issue. Still need:

Fix tailgate open light (stuck on)
Fix tailgate panel and trim I broke trying to remove it
Buzzing from dash when headlights are off
Oil change
Coolant flush
Fix parking brake
Suspension creaks
And more

List goes on but the car seems easy enough to work on. I like it so far and my kid can't wait to drive it to school. It's really his car but I don't think he has as much interest in cars as his dad.

[abscate]

Stop,the presses!! Abscate actually contributed something of value beyond snark to MVS!!

This is sure to crash the new server........