2001 v70 xc smoke coming out of oil dipstick.

Post by **vtl** » 24 Aug 2015, 21:48

Did you do compression test? I imagine if piston rings are stuck engine may get too much gases into crankcase.

Also do same glove test under boost (ask somebody to rev engine up to 2500). Does it inflate?

newbieofthenorth2+ · Post by **newbieofthenorth2+** » 24 Aug 2015, 21:55

I haven't done a compression test yet. But the glove does inflate (barely) under idle.

Post by **vtl** » 24 Aug 2015, 22:01

There's no vacuum in intake manifold under boost, so PCV has two pressure evacuation circuits: to intake manifold if it has vacuum (at lower revs) and to turbine intake (through PTC) under boost. You checked that first one does not work or does not have enough throughput to eliminate all the pressure. Now check second circuit (under boost), is it able to cope with the crankcase pressure?

Post by **vtl** » 24 Aug 2015, 22:06

I can bet your engine has stuck rings if it has seen crappy oil and/or long change intervals.

To deal with partially stuck piston rings in my engine I poured Seafoam to cylinders and left it overnight, turning crank (wheel has to come off) +/- 15 degrees from time to time, adding more Seafoam when it dripped to crankcase. Overall engine went through two cans. Oil consumption dropped from 160 ml per 1000 km to 110 ml, and the engine starts more easily.

newbieofthenorth2+ · Post by **newbieofthenorth2+** » 24 Aug 2015, 22:09

I'll have my neighbour rev it and do the glove test first thing in the morning and post. And post a response.

newbieofthenorth2+ · Post by **newbieofthenorth2+** » 26 Aug 2015, 15:51

I've never used a product like seafoam. Are you saying that I should remove the plugs and pour it directly down the hole into the cylinders?. Wouldn't that hydro lock the engine? Also. My neighbour had a quart of 'Lucas heavy Duty oil stabilizer' laying around. Since I've heard nothing negative (or too positive) about this product I added a litre today. I'm planning on switching to high mileage oil before the coldweather sets in anyway. (probably be around late sept. Up here). So if it is useless itwont be there very long anyway.

newbieofthenorth2+ · Post by **newbieofthenorth2+** » 26 Aug 2015, 15:59

Also. Over the last week I've been draining and refilling the coolant with de-ionized water. So far i've run 24 litres through it (with the thermo removed). It's still coming out slightly light green/yellowish. Should I go the next step and add a prestone flush additive?

jerseykat1 · Post by **jerseykat1** » 26 Aug 2015, 19:05

i would imagine there would be a misfire code or 2 if his rings are stuck. there would also be actual misfiring. If not there might even be a Catalytic efficiency code. This is typically what you get from a engine with low compression dues to worn or stuck rings (though im no expert on volvos), you could actually cause your compression to lower a bit by cleaning the carbon build up off of the pistons.

Do a compression test before you seafoam it. if compression is normal 120-130 ish for turbo (typical specs for forced induction engines, volvos may differ IDK) Than your problem just may be elsewhere.

jerseykat1 · Post by **jerseykat1** » 26 Aug 2015, 19:09

newbieofthenorth2+ wrote:I've never used a product like seafoam. Are you saying that I should remove the plugs and pour it directly down the hole into the cylinders?. Wouldn't that hydro lock the engine? Also. My neighbour had a quart of 'Lucas heavy Duty oil stabilizer' laying around. Since I've heard nothing negative (or too positive) about this product I added a litre today. I'm planning on switching to high mileage oil before the coldweather sets in anyway. (probably be around late sept. Up here). So if it is useless itwont be there very long anyway.

stick with synthetic oil. high milage just has a higher zinc content. synthetic oils prevent sludge build up in your engine. thats the way to go.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Aug 2015, 11:52

newbieofthenorth2+ wrote:Also. Over the last week I've been draining and refilling the coolant with de-ionized water. So far i've run 24 litres through it (with the thermo removed). It's still coming out slightly light green/yellowish. Should I go the next step and add a prestone flush additive?

Don't use dionized, and flush the system by opening the radiator drain while putting water back into the reservoir. It will run pure water in about 15 minutes. Baby sit it the whole time so you don't run your engine dry if the hose flops out, if pterodactyls pick it up, etc.

After this, shut down, let the water run out, close drain plug, add requisite amount of coolant and top off with either tap or distilled water - appropriate freeze protection for your locale.