Fitted new Egr from dealer and still the same problems
If I rev it over 4000 rpm the anti skid comes on and goes into limp mode em light comes on turned the car off and on again and anti skid stays out till it is revved again but em light is on the whole time same fault codes so where do I go from there
S40 1.6 diesel 2005
Hi,
Can I jump on this thread because my issue seems related.
Bought a 2007 S40 1.6D a couple of months ago - very well looked after and only 97k miles.
I get an intermittent ABS Light and 'Reduced Engine Performance''. Had a diagnostic done which erased all historic codes and then took car for a spin to provoke warning light with obd still monitoring.
As the light came on, I got an ECU/BCM communication faultfollowed by a turbo overboost fault which I believe is a knock-on effect of the car going into limp mode while the turbo is spinning. On the plus side all ABS Sensors and rings were responding fine (although they'd have been the easier/cheaper fix)
I've found all the threads and YouTube videos about Volvo abs modules tending to gain 'dry' solder joints or the later ones losing pressure on their compression contacts so - as a qualified electrician with pcb experience and a keen/methodical amateur mechanic - I thought I'd whip the module out to check the connections.
In the meantime I also found one thread saying an abs light could be caused by a sooted up EGR - so I replaced the EGR before starting - no joy
Here's where the trouble begins - all the YouTube videos show the module being easy to remove from under the battery tray - mine is high level behind the battery box tucked behind the rigid hydraulic pipes and the pump etc.
There doesn't seem to be any way to remove it without disconnecting the brake lines and having to drain/refill the system?...unless you can undo the torch screws on the pump that hold the module to the manifold, and get it out without fluid going everywhere??
Any thoughts/experience/guidance would be much appreciated - I've ordered a Sealey VS820 brake bleed kit just in case but if I can get the module out without interfering with the hydraulics I'd probably be happier?
Cheers
Rich
Can I jump on this thread because my issue seems related.
Bought a 2007 S40 1.6D a couple of months ago - very well looked after and only 97k miles.
I get an intermittent ABS Light and 'Reduced Engine Performance''. Had a diagnostic done which erased all historic codes and then took car for a spin to provoke warning light with obd still monitoring.
As the light came on, I got an ECU/BCM communication faultfollowed by a turbo overboost fault which I believe is a knock-on effect of the car going into limp mode while the turbo is spinning. On the plus side all ABS Sensors and rings were responding fine (although they'd have been the easier/cheaper fix)
I've found all the threads and YouTube videos about Volvo abs modules tending to gain 'dry' solder joints or the later ones losing pressure on their compression contacts so - as a qualified electrician with pcb experience and a keen/methodical amateur mechanic - I thought I'd whip the module out to check the connections.
In the meantime I also found one thread saying an abs light could be caused by a sooted up EGR - so I replaced the EGR before starting - no joy
Here's where the trouble begins - all the YouTube videos show the module being easy to remove from under the battery tray - mine is high level behind the battery box tucked behind the rigid hydraulic pipes and the pump etc.
There doesn't seem to be any way to remove it without disconnecting the brake lines and having to drain/refill the system?...unless you can undo the torch screws on the pump that hold the module to the manifold, and get it out without fluid going everywhere??
Any thoughts/experience/guidance would be much appreciated - I've ordered a Sealey VS820 brake bleed kit just in case but if I can get the module out without interfering with the hydraulics I'd probably be happier?
Cheers
Rich
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doublebug
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RichieS40, In this case it is nothing ABS related. Just engine issue. That is because for DSTC implementation ECM & BCM are working tightly together.
So I think you have BCM-0101 error code?
So I think you have BCM-0101 error code?
If you have questions about Volvo firmware ask me. I may know an answer 
Hi,
Yes BCM-0101 and 1517 (Turbo).
It's annoying having the abs light come on intermittently and also can be highly inconvenient going into reduced engine performance mode on e.g. A motorway.
If you believe it's not a faulty abs module causing the fault and the EGR is brand new, can you give any pointers to other readily swappable sensors / things to look at that may need replacing/cleaning? E.g. Fuel pressure sensor, MAF, DPF etc
I'd love to get to the bottom of it...preferably without breaking the bank
Yes BCM-0101 and 1517 (Turbo).
It's annoying having the abs light come on intermittently and also can be highly inconvenient going into reduced engine performance mode on e.g. A motorway.
If you believe it's not a faulty abs module causing the fault and the EGR is brand new, can you give any pointers to other readily swappable sensors / things to look at that may need replacing/cleaning? E.g. Fuel pressure sensor, MAF, DPF etc
I'd love to get to the bottom of it...preferably without breaking the bank
Hi Doublebug,
Can I ask what your thought process/elimination sequence might be e.g 1) VIDA/DICE code read, 2) Check xxx...etc... or are there any obvious cost effective candidates because my issue seems speed related i.e. I can provoke light almost at will by taking revs >4500 e.g Turbo pressure valve,
I did notice when I took the engine cover off to swap EGR that the the 'lugs' have broken off the smaller branched pipe that comes off the main airbox-to-engine pipe/hose and it's held in situ with cables ties...I've order a replacement as I immediately wondered if the issue could be an air imbalance between MAF sensor and subsequent sensors as air might be escaping under high revs?
Thanks in advance
Richie
Can I ask what your thought process/elimination sequence might be e.g 1) VIDA/DICE code read, 2) Check xxx...etc... or are there any obvious cost effective candidates because my issue seems speed related i.e. I can provoke light almost at will by taking revs >4500 e.g Turbo pressure valve,
I did notice when I took the engine cover off to swap EGR that the the 'lugs' have broken off the smaller branched pipe that comes off the main airbox-to-engine pipe/hose and it's held in situ with cables ties...I've order a replacement as I immediately wondered if the issue could be an air imbalance between MAF sensor and subsequent sensors as air might be escaping under high revs?
Thanks in advance
Richie
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