Sanity check, control arm, or tie rod?

Post by **kahl** » 21 Mar 2016, 20:34

If you are going to keep the car for several years and many miles go with Lemforder. I have used Meyle control arms but only get 25 to 40 K miles out of them. The V70 that I put Lemforder on has close to 60 K miles at last inspection in January and are fine.

dorvin · Post by **dorvin** » 21 Mar 2016, 20:47

Good advice, I don't plan on getting rid of 'ol Molly soon, so I opted for Lemforder.

Post by **abscate** » 22 Mar 2016, 04:56

Just piling on here a bit. If you feel any play in a ball joint, they are worn out or the bolt is loose. When you can SEE it like the video s, they are shot to the point of don't drive the car. Each bump is fatigue stressing that joint and it will break and then things go ugly really quickly.

Kudos for taking the time to get under your car and look for stuff Going wrong.

Post by **oragex** » 22 Mar 2016, 05:27

tryingbe wrote:
oragex wrote:The bill is for the control arm, the large horizontal 'triangular' alloy piece that connects the spindle assembly to the chassis. The one in the video that seems to have a play appears to be the lower ball joint (a separate part) which inserts into the extremity of the control arm but usually it's not replaced together with the control arm.

Not true with most Volvo 850.
It's on sale! Get it!
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... p80cakt2p2

With that much play, I wouldn't feel safe driving it. I'd rent a car instead.

My mistake. So the ball joint was replaced at 70K along with the control arm. This would explain why the ball joint is busted. Without a doubt the control arm (along with the ball joint) was an aftermarket part. I double the advice above about Lemforder or original Volvo part. Meyle HD, Febi or anything else is a gambling if the car is to be kept for more than 1 year.

Post by **mecheng** » 22 Mar 2016, 08:09

I've been driving with a bad lower ball joint for 3 months, I will replace it next month. I have about the same movement as yours. I highly doubt it would come apart. I bought a Febi, I am impressed with the build quality, it is made in Germany/Italy/Taiwan.

Post by **oragex** » 22 Mar 2016, 12:50

By the time when the Honda Civic had fragile ball joints I used to regularly spot them with a detached wheel on the border of the road. I dont't think the ball will pop out in this case, but if the rod has rusted it might fail at any moment. Not a bad idea to have a look under the dust boot.

dorvin · Post by **dorvin** » 27 Mar 2016, 22:53

Well, against the advice, and the impeding meeting in Chicago I couldn't miss, I took 'ol Molly to Chicago and back without issue. My new Lemforder control arms are due in tomorrow, so I'll be working on that after work each night this week to get it done. In the meantime, I'll be taking my '77 Cutlass to work and back each day. I'll keep this thread updated with what I find out regarding the wear and just how lucky I was to make it 800 extra miles on a known bad ball joint. It's strange, I really only noticed the play in the joint while behind a semi and the winds those throw off while you're behind them. Other than that, the trip both to and back were smooth.

Sanity check, control arm, or tie rod?

Re: Sanity check, control arm, or tie rod?