1999 Volvo V70na Steering rack woes...

[Pezgoon]

Just my .02 cents, I had to do the rack on my 93 850 and I know that's a complete different car but I went with a duralast rack, it was the cheapest, free shipping to store in a day, and lifetime warranty...

I did it in the garage and that was terrible so I feel sorry if your gonna have to do it on a gravel driveway, the creeper helped alot

Also if while your in there and your pressure and return lines look like they may need replacing I'd suggest doing them at the same time, the angle I had to put the rack at to get them to attach without cross threading would be impossible while attached and there is just no room to try and pull on the lines while attaching. It sucks.

And don't forget the sway bar going back in like I did and have to re torque the subframe, its a torque angle spec and its a bear to do it nothing like having to do something three times...

[paredown]

Doh! Duplicate post!!

Oh, I might as well use it to report that Jac's quoted me $266.99 + $150 core on a rebuilt SMI rack.

My local independent (who does Volvo) quoted me 3 hrs for replacement (plus the alignment and flush) and it was around $600 all in.

He did get a little snarky though--since it would be my part, they would charge me labor up front to put in, and would charge me labor if it needed to be taken out if there were a problem...

[paredown]

Much angst on this end, but I finally decided that my '99 has the new style tank off to the side, and the SMI rack, so it should probably use the CHF style fluid. I was able to pick up the Pentosin at our local Carquest (formerly a NAPA shop--it was in the identical cans as the NAPA offering so I don't know if it was holdover stock). It was $18/qt so cheaper than Amazon.

I actually removed the p/s reservoir so I could check it for leaks & cleaned it thoroughly. I then did the drain, pump through until clean fluid was coming out the return. I used about a quart until it was pumping clean. What came out in the flush was pretty nasty. I then buttoned everything up, topped up the fluid and added the stop leak (the container treats 6 quarts, so I used about 1/6 of the bottle).

I cleaned the driver's side of the rack, so I could see if it will leak new fluid--I will check it again tomorrow to see if it has sealed up at all.

But I managed to create a problem for myself--fighting to separate the coolant and p/s reservoirs, I managed to break the connection of coolant level wire and I found a crack on the overflow return to the coolant tank. That may have been there already since I have had minor fluid loss for a time, so it looks like I will be back in there one more time to replace those.

[oragex]

But I managed to create a problem for myself--fighting to separate the coolant and p/s reservoirs, I managed to break the connection of coolant level wire and I found a crack on the overflow return to the coolant tank. That may have been there already since I have had minor fluid loss for a time, so it looks like I will be back in there one more time to replace those.

The level sensor in the coolant tank is prone to break when the tank is lifted without disconnecting the electrical connector. The tank shouldn't leak though, only the sensor will show false alarm low level.

[paredown]

But I managed to create a problem for myself--fighting to separate the coolant and p/s reservoirs, I managed to break the connection of coolant level wire and I found a crack on the overflow return to the coolant tank. That may have been there already since I have had minor fluid loss for a time, so it looks like I will be back in there one more time to replace those.

The level sensor in the coolant tank is prone to break when the tank is lifted without disconnecting the electrical connector. The tank shouldn't leak though, only the sensor will show false alarm low level.

For the life of me I could not figure out the electrical connector. Of course it didn't help that there was residual brake fluid around and on my hands so I could not get a good grip on it.

The leak though is on the top return line molded connector. At first I thought I hadn't clamped tight enough, but there is a small crack just at the base of the connector on the tank...

The steering feels better than before the flush and fill with new fluid--a little less 'powered' than it did before.