2004 XC 70 Timing issues
Re: 2004 XC 70 Timing issues
Check out this video , it shows that the cams can be turned 360 with the crank timing mark lined up. , so either your crank sprocket has somehow turned on the crank or you are not lining it up properly. I had trouble finding mine until I learned the 2007 mark was on the harmonic balancer , not the crank cog/gear.
As this car is new to me, what are the chances that someone has changed the oil pump. If the cams are to turn freely 360+ then it only make sense that my crankshaft is not positioned correctly, does anyone have the knowledge of where the marks are on oil pumps, as seeing on posts 2 differing timing marks I am thinking I have a mark issue, this AM the sprocket is coming off to see what I see...and will get a casting # off of pump, from pics the location of mark is correct, SR# of eng is 3143580 it is a B5254T eng mu mark is like a squiggly upside down u ..
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chrism
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Something is wierd (like I really needed to tell you that).
Something to ponder: If it were possible for you to rotate the crank 2 complete rev's, EVERY valve would have opened and closed one time each. And you're ALMOST achieving that. So if you are able to rotate it 1-1/2 rev's before hitting an obstacle, that means at least three or four of the cylinders are getting cleanly past that "area of possible interference". So if the problem is piston/valve contact, it must be only in one (maybe two) cylinder(s). If the culprit was the crank mark being off, you would probably run up against piston/valve contact LONG BEFORE rotating it 1-1/2 rev's. On a five cylinder engine, combustion occurs every 144 degrees of crank rotation. (720 degrees divided by 5). However, double checking the the crank sprocket-to-shaft relationship isn't a bad idea just to make sure it's OK.
You indicate that Cyl #5 may be a cylinder of interest. I'm wondering if you might have a bent valve stem in that one cylinder that is causing it to hang open.
A couple questions:
With no bore scope, could you hold a stethoscope down against the #5 piston crown while at the same time carefully rotating the crank back and forth and listen for a "tap-tap" through the stethoscope?
Are the intake and exhaust manifolds removed? If so, can you blow air through the #5 intake and exhaust ports when you know the valves should be closed?
Was the car running (smoothly) when you first got your hands on it?
Something to ponder: If it were possible for you to rotate the crank 2 complete rev's, EVERY valve would have opened and closed one time each. And you're ALMOST achieving that. So if you are able to rotate it 1-1/2 rev's before hitting an obstacle, that means at least three or four of the cylinders are getting cleanly past that "area of possible interference". So if the problem is piston/valve contact, it must be only in one (maybe two) cylinder(s). If the culprit was the crank mark being off, you would probably run up against piston/valve contact LONG BEFORE rotating it 1-1/2 rev's. On a five cylinder engine, combustion occurs every 144 degrees of crank rotation. (720 degrees divided by 5). However, double checking the the crank sprocket-to-shaft relationship isn't a bad idea just to make sure it's OK.
You indicate that Cyl #5 may be a cylinder of interest. I'm wondering if you might have a bent valve stem in that one cylinder that is causing it to hang open.
A couple questions:
With no bore scope, could you hold a stethoscope down against the #5 piston crown while at the same time carefully rotating the crank back and forth and listen for a "tap-tap" through the stethoscope?
Are the intake and exhaust manifolds removed? If so, can you blow air through the #5 intake and exhaust ports when you know the valves should be closed?
Was the car running (smoothly) when you first got your hands on it?
- F250
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 18 June 2016
- Year and Model: 2007 S60 2.5T
- Location: Alabama
- Been thanked: 1 time
If you can show us some pictures of what marks you're referring to, and how they are lined up, we can perhaps understand a little more about where you are in the process. The VVT hubs have multiple marks on them, and the larger and easier to see mark is NOT the one you need to be using for alignment. At least that is the case on my daughter's '07 2.5T.
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Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K
The car ran smoothly, was showing a code P0016 cam crank phase issue, pulled the cover and cleaned, put a tad of oil in cyl, to loosen, plugs are out while turning attempts, so not hydraulic, so I am at the stage of getting a bore scope, as far as a bent valve I get pressure when blowing in plug hole with cam allowing valves to close, agree it must be in only one cyl considering the rotation I can get, thinking carbon swelling from oil, will continue to dig away at it, thank for advise, not sure how to post a pic, I am not using any marks on VVT hubs, am using a cam lock as orientation and crank mark and turning VVTs clockwise to position them to locked cams, and slotted holes in cam sprockets to allow belt to center/tighten without moving cam or crank, yet it hits somewhere, like I said think #5 thanks
- F250
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 18 June 2016
- Year and Model: 2007 S60 2.5T
- Location: Alabama
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Understood.
I had the same thing happen while doing my daughter's CVVT hubs and found that one of the hubs was not fully clockwise. When hand-turning, I could not even get 1 full turn out of it before it hit something firm... dead stop... no noise, just stopped turning. I know that you have only one VVT hub as compared to the two on my daughter's '7, but do you think that your one hub may be shifting back CCW a bit while re-installing the timing belt? Once I started from scratch again and paid close attention to the full CW positioning, everything lined up and the engine started and ran beautifully.
As has already been mentioned, too, it may be that your crank gear is not positioned correctly on the crank shaft? I thought, though, that the crank pulley is keyed, but I have certainly been wrong before.
I had the same thing happen while doing my daughter's CVVT hubs and found that one of the hubs was not fully clockwise. When hand-turning, I could not even get 1 full turn out of it before it hit something firm... dead stop... no noise, just stopped turning. I know that you have only one VVT hub as compared to the two on my daughter's '7, but do you think that your one hub may be shifting back CCW a bit while re-installing the timing belt? Once I started from scratch again and paid close attention to the full CW positioning, everything lined up and the engine started and ran beautifully.
As has already been mentioned, too, it may be that your crank gear is not positioned correctly on the crank shaft? I thought, though, that the crank pulley is keyed, but I have certainly been wrong before.
______________________________
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K
I have 2 vvt hubs and have used a torx wrench to turn clockwise, so am not sure what, I just put a wire (copper) down the plug holes and scrapped etc and blew air in with a small hose, will try to retime all phases and see what happened, just a not I found a spot where I can turn both the cam and crank without hitting so that means it is a valve piston crash when timed, will remove balancer and see what I see, I know balancers turn on the rubber, but I have no mark on balancer, but I have no history on can, so who knows what was done with what parts, so I just continue to rule things out..sure glad you all take time to chime in, and the crank gear is splined, so it cant turn, but I am going to look at that next before I move on..turned the hubs via a torx wrench to make certain they were clockwise..
- F250
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- Year and Model: 2007 S60 2.5T
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Wish I could offer more intelligence for you, but I think you're already in deeper than I could get anyway.
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
______________________________
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K
- jonesg
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Its gotten out of sync, position the crank such that cams can be rotated 360 degs, then bring crank back to TDC and cams into position.
Its just out of sync is all.
Its just out of sync is all.
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