Even if the threads are a bit buggered, as long as the bolt tightens down the crush washers should provide a tight seal.
When I look at your photos, it appears that the mating surface on the engine is slightly recessed. Have you verified that the outside diameter (O.D.) of the crush washer fits well within the recess? Likewise, does the inside diameter (I.D.) fit within close tolerance of the bolt diameter?
Have you screwed the bolt into the engine by itself, no washers or banjo fitting, to make sure it can EASILY screw in far enough to provide a tight seal when the fitting and washer are in place?
Also, the photo looks like the mating surface on the engine may be a bit gouged/scratched/marred but I can't tell for sure. Is it nice and smooth? Likewise for both mating surfaces on the banjo bolt and the bolt shoulder? If the mating surface is scratched you might be able to rescue it by taking some very fine sand paper, like 800 grit or finer, and with your thumb sand the surface in a rotating motion much like you would crush an ant on the kitchen counter - always a rotating motion.
Is the bolt bent or damaged in a way that prevents it from seating squarely against the crush washer?
Can you tell if it's leaking between the fitting and the engine or between the bolt head and the fitting?
Why is my PCV Banjo bolt leaking from right side of engine? Topic is solved
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gquepasa
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 12 December 2016
- Year and Model: 2001 volvo s60 2.4 T
- Location: Baltimore ,MD
Thanks, I put some RTV - Water Pump & Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket Maker since it has the highest water-glycol resistance available in an RTV silicone - place it on threads and washer and exterior. Let it stand 24 hours and full it with coolant no leak, but when I turned it on I guess the pressure found a opening and began to drip out not as much as without it but a steady drip. I removed some coolant until it stopped and added more RTV to the area. I'll give it another 24 hours turn it on and see what happens.
I had my entire positive crankcase ventilation (pcv) system replaced this week at a local shop using a pcv kit from Vparts in Sweden. The car is a XC70 model year 2001, engine code B5422T3.
The mechanic told me a leak started around the banjo bolt that attaches to the block after the new pcv parts were installed. There was no leak before the pcv was replaced. It turned out to be a bad new banjo bolt that had been poorly welded and therefore leaked. So my tip is to check the banjo bolt itself, even if it is new.
The mechanic told me a leak started around the banjo bolt that attaches to the block after the new pcv parts were installed. There was no leak before the pcv was replaced. It turned out to be a bad new banjo bolt that had been poorly welded and therefore leaked. So my tip is to check the banjo bolt itself, even if it is new.
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vtl
- Posts: 4724
- Joined: 16 August 2012
- Year and Model: 2005 XC70
- Location: Boston
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The bolt is machined. Mechanic had to use heat resistant PTFE thread sealant. Factory bolt has it, but it is long hardened since 2001 and can not seal the new bolt. And two new copper crush washers.berg07 wrote: ↑26 Sep 2024, 05:01 I had my entire positive crankcase ventilation (pcv) system replaced this week at a local shop using a pcv kit from Vparts in Sweden. The car is a XC70 model year 2001, engine code B5422T3.
The mechanic told me a leak started around the banjo bolt that attaches to the block after the new pcv parts were installed. There was no leak before the pcv was replaced. It turned out to be a bad new banjo bolt that had been poorly welded and therefore leaked. So my tip is to check the banjo bolt itself, even if it is new.
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