98 v70 axle nut stuck Topic is solved

[98v70dad]

This is the more recent version of what I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heav ... 68099.html

Whatever cheap impact you can find with those specs, or a more expensive one with better specs, it will do the trick. Especially given the salt-free roads where you live. Remember if the fastener gets stubborn it often helps to try tightening it. I know you don;t like HF and I can understand why, but you may pay a lot more for the same item at HD. I'd check Craigslist, too.

I actually like Hf/, but most corded tools that I've boughtbtherevhave failed on the fitrst or second use. I buy a lot of other stuff there though.

[theWIFES_S70]

I use a Milwaukee 1/2 electric impact driver... It's never failed me. (Even after breaking two 1/2 breaker bars (one a Williams USA one!) trying to get out some Altima axle bolts this past December.) But the cheapest way to go about it would be to use a 3/4 and a breaker bar. No way you'd break something using that. Good luck.

[jreed]

Just adding my experience for what it's worth... As cuhfs recommends, I too bought the 3/4" drive 18" long breaker bar and the set of 3/4" drive sockets (which includes a 36mm) at Harbor Freight. I got a 5 foot long 1" galvanized steel pipe at Lowe's or Home Depot and put it over the 3/4" breaker bar. This set up worked great when I used it three years ago on the axle nuts.

It turns out I haven't used these tools for anything else yet, so it might be more economical to try an impact wrench, use heat, and/or get a shop to loosen the nuts.

[cuhfs]

In my case a professional auto shop could not loosen it and air nor electric impact wrenches would work. It was "check mate" - (out of options). And the original poster already has the pipe. Needs the 3/4 breaker and maybe can get a single 3/4 socket on ebay. I bought set from HF.

[rspi]

Replacing my right side axle today and I can't get the axle nut loose. Everything else popped loose with no problem. I've bathed it in penetrant and so far I've broken a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and a 1/2 inch breaker bar at the 1/2 inch insert into the socket. I'm using a 4 ft pipe as a cheater.

Been there. I was going to Sears every day.

I purchased a HF cordless impact gun and broke free a crank nut. Took about 10 minutes but it finally started turning. The shock of impact is priceless. I doubt the tool is still good enough to break another one loose, but hey, that one time was worth the $100 to me.

[98v70dad]

Thanks everyone. I bought the harbor freight electric impact wrench this morning and it broke the nut loose, although it took a few minutes. I had a 20% off coupon so it only cost me $40.00. I like HF tools if they work but my experience with corded tools is that the usually don't. The electric impact wrench worked for me, though. I've had a tough time finding a decent breaker bar to replace the one I broke, but I'll eventually find something that works well. I got my axle replaced. Volvo OE axle. Sweet but expensive. All I have left to do is torquing everything to spec. I'll do that tomorrow morning. I really don't want to use the impact wrench to torque the axle nut...we'll see what happens with the replacement breaker bar I bought.

[98v70dad]

If anyone can give me the torque values for the following I'd appreciate it. I'm sure I could find them here eventually but I've looked and they didn't pop up right away.

Axle nut.
Control arm at the frame
bolts for the RH side axle carriage bearing bracket.

[gmh]

From cn90's DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

First post on page 2.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29716&start=10

Torque Values:
- Big 36-mm Axle Nut: 120 Nm then turn another 60 degrees.
- Control Arm Subframe Side: 65 Nm then another 120 degrees.
- (R) Axle Shaft Support 10-mm bolts: 25 Nm.

[erikv11]

Axle nut - really, really, really tight. OK I actually do usually torque this one, 120 Nm plus 60˚.
Control arm at the frame - really tight (be sure to pre-load!)
bolts for the RH side axle carriage bearing bracket - not very tight

[sleddriver]

Emphasis on pre-loading the control arms before tightening.