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My '98 XC Just Died On The Road Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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erikv11
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Re: URGENT: My '98 XC Just Died On The Road

Post by erikv11 »

cn90 wrote:Or could be the infamous fuel pump RELAY.
Search forum for a jump wire between terminals 15 and 87.
Oops read the first post again - definitely not a problem with the fuel pump relay.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

DaveP189
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Joined: 17 November 2016
Year and Model: 1998 V70XC
Location: Northern NY

Post by DaveP189 »

abscate wrote:There is a fusible link that supplies most everything that could have popped. You have to replace/splice that.
You should be able to use the starter bypass to test if the battery is good enough to turn the starter and confirm battery and cables are ok, at least down to starter.
Ignition switch or load relay would be my guidance based on symptoms
That fusible link comment struck a cord. Had the same thing happen to me w/ a GLH Turbo (if I remember correctly, that was in the 80's). Do you know where it's located?

Um - "load relay"?
1998 (late) V70 XC
2002 MINI Cooper S (modified)
1977 Triumph Spitfire

DaveP189
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Joined: 17 November 2016
Year and Model: 1998 V70XC
Location: Northern NY

Post by DaveP189 »

It's not the fuel pump, it didn't sputter to a stop, it Just. Flat. Quit. Instantly.
I just did the fuel pump a month ago.
Last edited by DaveP189 on 26 Feb 2017, 19:06, edited 1 time in total.
1998 (late) V70 XC
2002 MINI Cooper S (modified)
1977 Triumph Spitfire

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

The fuel pump relay won't take out the other electrical stuff

The electrical part of the ignition switch can cause switch lockup...just broke into one today...
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Post by abscate »

Someone grab the 1998 power wiring diagram off the webs and post here please, so we can talk Dave through this.

( Volvo lets users do this here, but has asked moderators to refrain)
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Post by erikv11 »

Pull and re-seat relay # 15 :
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... 70_102.htm

Scan the other stuff in there, 1 through 8, while you have it open.

Definitely check the ignition switch carefully, I still it's most likely.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

DaveP189 wrote:Completely dead. Was going along and - Poof! - it quit. No lights, no numbers on the dash displays, even the 4-ways won't come on. So, something electrical, but I have no idea what.
Belt is intact. 2-year old Interstate battery. No warning.
Any ideas, Please?
How cold has it been up there lately?
Is there a lot of salt used on the road?

A faulty ignition SW will take out your windows, dash lights, stereo, climate control, and many other items. However, the emergency flashers should be independent of the Ig. SW. I'd suggest pulling the fuse/relay cover in the engine compartment and having a look at the red multi-cable main power connection there for any signs of overheating, corrosion, green copper oxidation etc. Losing this will take out many, many circuits. Is this cable original?
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

Volvo_Flasher Ckt.JPG
Volvo_Flasher Ckt.JPG (116.62 KiB) Viewed 854 times
Volvo_Electrical distribution.JPG
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM

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Post by rspi »

The dash would have lite up.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Post by abscate »

From that diagram it looks like bad battery or ground cable are needed to take out dash lights

Bad ground you can diagnose running a jumper from battery to engine block

Bad battery if that doesn't work.

Bad alternator diodes could be draining battery but you usually get some signs of either life ( weak crank, dim lights) or death ( diodes cooking)
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