Timing Belt Moving?

alexv702003 · Post by **alexv702003** » 04 Sep 2017, 00:37

Ok I don't have a CEL so the timing must be fine.

Any tips on checking if the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulley are good?

Post by **Rattnalle** » 04 Sep 2017, 05:53

My timing belt looks the same. It's up for replacement in just a few hundred miles though. I'll be replacing everything that touches the belt.

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 04 Sep 2017, 11:42

That belt movement is indicative of uneven stretching or weave in the belt cords.

If you're going to replace the belt it's just cheap insurance to replace the water pump. It is mandatory to replace the tensioner and idlers. These belts are so strong and robust that it's rarely the belt fails. Usually one of the pulleys seize which then causes the belt to fail. Do not skimp on this job - these are interference engines and if the timing belt fails you will destroy the engine.

It looks like your car has VVT, it's tricky to replace the belt and get everything aligned again. You'll need some special service tools to lock the cams, and optionally lock the crank. I'd recommend farming this job out if you're not 100% comfortable with the procedure.

alexv702003 · Post by **alexv702003** » 04 Sep 2017, 11:51

Rattnalle- Your timing belt moves side to side like mine does?

FCP Euro and 1A Auto each have a DIY video on replacing the timing belt on this exact car (P2 V70/S60 2.4 NA) and it doesn't look too bad.

Post by **Rattnalle** » 04 Sep 2017, 12:35

alexv702003 wrote: 04 Sep 2017, 11:51 Rattnalle- Your timing belt moves side to side like mine does?

FCP Euro and 1A Auto each have a DIY video on replacing the timing belt on this exact car (P2 V70/S60 2.4 NA) and it doesn't look too bad.

Slightly less, but pretty much yes. Mine has done 155000 of the 160000 km interval though so its time. I'm still not sure if I'll do it myself. Im not sure I have tools that will reach everything in the small gap. I'll probably get a few quotes before deciding.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 04 Sep 2017, 13:55

jbeebo wrote: 04 Sep 2017, 11:42 These belts are so strong and robust that it's rarely the belt fails. Usually one of the pulleys seize which then causes the belt to fail. Do not skimp on this job - these are interference engines and if the timing belt fails you will destroy the engine.

That is my experience with this type of timing belt over the years too. They will stretch some over their normal stated life but I've never seen one fail without some outside influence such as the failure of a pulley or tensioner except in extreme high mileage/severe neglect: I've seen a couple where the belt failed all on it's own. However in those cases the belt didn't physically "break apart"...the rubber/poly teeth on the belt stripped out around the crank, hence the belt from the top looked ok, but if you turned the crank the cams didn't move. But both of these were at much higher mileage, between 2x-3x the recommended service interval.

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 04 Sep 2017, 14:14

mrbrian200 wrote: 04 Sep 2017, 13:55 the rubber/poly teeth on the belt stripped out around the crank

I've seen this happen before too. These belts are hella strong. In a pinch I've used them to pull engines in a junkyard

(PS: do not try this at home

)

@ OP, I'll emphasize again really do the research and consider if you want to take on this job. I've replaced quite a few timing belts in the 30 years I've been wrenching on cars and I'm going to farm out the job for this engine. Not because I don't think I can pull it off but rather it looks like a PITA to get it realigned properly. I've come across probably 15 different posts of struggles to get the cams realigned. The marking is not clear and the Volvo factory service manual is misleading (believe it or not). Look up the procedure F250 wrote up for more info.
Non-VVT should be a cake walk. VVT engine, especially dual VVT that I have - ugh.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 04 Sep 2017, 14:51

The match marking of things...pulleys/original belt (that hasn't failed) before it comes off...and counting teeth method is pretty fool proof on VVT engines. But that assumes the original belt was installed properly and hasn't failed or jumped. OPs is having drivability concerns/reduced power under 2000rpm, which puts this in question. I think I've seen a reference or two where people found that a belt a tooth off will usually set a DTC, but not necessarily in every case.

alexv702003 · Post by **alexv702003** » 04 Sep 2017, 20:56

How can I check to see if my timing is correct with my old belt that's on there now?

alexv702003 · Post by **alexv702003** » 05 Sep 2017, 19:28

How can I verify that my old belt was installed properly so I can move on and successfully complete the timing belt change with the new belt?