1999 V70T5M56 Exhaust CVVT hub replacement 1275363

[wizechatmgr]

It isn't the one time polishing that's an issue, it is the cumulative "polishing" action that causes the damage - if one believes in such a thing. =)

If you still need a T55 I may have one in the back of the car. Send me a text if you need it and I can drop it off tomorrow morning.

[abscate]

Thx wcm. Popped the belt back on today. Will confirm timing marks , re lock cams, and then torque hubs back to spec

[abscate]

Well, belt wasn't on right and now it's kicking my butt. I took off the harmonic balancer but can't get tension from the crank pulley to the intake cam that holds. I tried by trick of a wood wedge to hold tension on the bottom cam and that failed too.

Die another day.

[j-dawg]

Use rubber-ended woodworking clamps to hold the belt on the top edge of the two cam sprockets to maintain the preload on your exhaust cam. In the attached pic (shamelessly stolen from a thread by deepsouth), you'd put the clamps where he's got the white-out marks. Then, with the cams locked at the rear, your hands are free to work on the rest of the belt.

I found that I had to slip the belt onto the crank pulley with the crank two teeth clockwise from TDC, get the belt between the sprocket teeth, then spin the crank CCW to TDC. If I did two teeth, it would naturally take up the slack and end at TDC with the belt taut. Your results may vary, depending on the belt and how far you've got your car disassembled. At that point the belt was taut on the intake cam, exhaust cam, water pump, and crank pulley; the last item is the tensioner, which, once you slide the belt onto it, will hold the belt in place while you set the tension and torque the bolt.

[wizechatmgr]

I've used Zip ties before to hold motorcycle timing chains on and then snip them when done. If in a jam, this may do the trick.

[wizechatmgr]

@Abscate and I loosened the idler pulley and unloaded the timing adjuster and everything slid right in as it should. Went in like butter and it is super quiet - as it should be.

We discovered by chance that his cam locking tool is slightly 'deformed/deranged/evil.'

While looking at his belt I discovered that whomever did the timing belt on mine before I bought it doesn't know how to properly set the timing belt tension so I reset mine to be within spec.

[wizechatmgr]

6mm hex for adjusting the timing tensioner and I believe it is a 14mm to tighten it. Many pics I'm sure will follow... Now back to your regularly scheduled programming!

[abscate]

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[abscate]

plot thickened today - I thought the serp belt idler/tensioner was bad, but it turns out my rebuilt alternator is making the same noise I serviced it for 25000 miles ago - my guess is vendor never replaced bearings.

I am transitioning to where I think I want to do more bench work myself rather than pay for others to not do it right.

[abscate]

Update..one week later I'm popping a P0014 code on startup, do I'm one tooth off.

I'm getting good snap performance and 25 mpg around town so I'll move the belt on the holidays

I cannot remember if I backed the exhaust off one tooth as VIDA says so I'll bet I didn't.

Forgot to add kudos to Capital Volvo in Albany NY (actually Colonie NY) who had the rear cam plug in stock on shelf for $9 - not bad for a car made in 1999.