The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

[erikv11]

Yes, they face the engine, so you can see the little notches from the top in good light. Those notches are visible in your first pic where the timing is off by a half tooth. A PITA but it works. Good move marking them to make it easier in the future.

Ball park tests are not advisable for timing an interference engine, always be certain with the actual crank marks. It may be hard to see them but they are there, don't stop until you see them ...

[XC70Rider]

Yes, they face the engine, so you can see the little notches from the top in good light. Those notches are visible in your first pic where the timing is off by a half tooth. A PITA but it works. Good move marking them to make it easier in the future.

Ball park tests are not advisable for timing an interference engine, always be certain with the actual crank marks. It may be hard to see them but they are there, don't stop until you see them ...

After throwing the crank gear back on I installed the timing belt. As known you don't want to rotate the crank with the belt missing. After fully rotating by hand twice the crank and both cam markings were still dead center. With the strut tower blockage I used a tiny ruler and mirror to confirm the exhaust cam marking. Got it done on the first try and she's running smooth with no codes.

[Mountainman45]

Why don't you want to rotate the crank alone

[ZionXIX]

Why don't you want to rotate the crank alone

For fear of bending the valves

[ediddily]

Currently my T belt is on and cams aligned.
I tried to remove crank pulley nut with cam holding tool on and the crank slipped 1 tooth counterclockwise.
How do I safely turn the crank back to the proper position?
Remove T belt then turn crank to proper position?
Do I need to remove spark plugs to not fight compression?

I attached 2 photos with phone. I will attach more with smaller camera once charged.

[abscate]

Yes, get the belt off and put the crank back in right.

It’s hard on the belt to slip teeth

[ediddily]

So I was able to loosen the belt and get everything aligned, reattach the belt and turn over by hand several times without valves hitting, at least I think. I was able to get the crank nut off by using the cars starter then use the air gun. I got the flywheel and timing pully off too.

What is the best approach to get the timing pulley back on?

How would turning the crank feel if valves were bent? Would it just not turn?

[abscate]

It won’t feel different, but it’s really hard to bend valves by hand cranking.if you didn’t use the starter if/when the valves contacted the pistons you will be fine

One tooth jump is nothing to worry about.

I put the Harmonic andpulley on, draw it down with the big nut, after cleaning the threads shiny so it runs nice. The crank spin tightens the nut, so I lube it for next time and get it nice and tight with a counter hold using two long m6 bolts in the flywheel holes. Don’t go crazy tight here, it will hold fine

[ediddily]

Thanks, after getting the balancer nut off using the starter method, I put the nut back in and turned by hand. I was able to turn the motor several times by hand with compression 4x going around. I believe everything is fine.

I'll try using the nut to get the pulley back on, it makes sense as it is a straight push back onto the shaft.

[seggs]

I’ve taken a little different path towards getting the timing correct with timing belt replacement & cam shaft removal/ valve job. Doesn’t require finding the specific marks, it just the method I use to ensure the timing remains exactly in the same positions in relation to the cams & crank sprockets. It assumes you currently have a good runner with correct timing.
I’ve done this on my 2004 xc70 w/ vvt...first with the timing belt cover off, using a paint pen, mark at the top of each of the cam pulleys (preferably at the top) on both the existing belt, and the sprocket. I like to mark one I or E on the belt just to keep them straight for future reference. Do either at the top of the tooth, or in the valley (but not one of each). then at the crank, remove the serpentine belt and the harmonic balancer. This gives a good view of the belt on the crank sprocket from underneath. Then mark the belt and edge of sprocket (you won’t be able to see the sprocket teeth in this case. Take a picture if you want to remember exactly what it looks like. Then remove the timing belt. For the mark at the crank, translate the mark exactly around the belt so you have a specific tooth marked. Flatten it out on the floor next to the new belt and carefully transfer the marks. Count teeth in between to be sure , but getting spacing in between cam marksis fairly simple. The spacing between the intake mark & crank mark is tougher because it’s a longer span. Old belt may have stretched a bit so make sure you line them up by the number of teeth. I don’t recommend doing by measuring. I like to clamp the belts together with vice grips to keep them correctly matched up. I first line up the teeth by eyeball, indexing the belt until I get to the crank mark, and make a Small mark. I the count off the teeth on both until I’m absolutely sure about it being correct, and then make a bigger more permanent mark, making it look like the original. If your replacing the WP & tensioner & idler, do that now.
Then put the timing belt on the top cam sprockets first, locking the belt into place on each with vice grips or a clamp. Route the belt from underneath with the exception of the idler. Unless you moved the cams or crank in the meantime, the marks on the crank end should fall fairly easily into place. The mark at the crank should be extremely close...if it’s more than 1/8 off, it’s on the wrong tooth, or your marks are off. Once I believe it’s right, I wedge something between the sprocket/belt & the frame underneath...once that’s set in place put the belt fully on by retracting the tensioner. Then, re-look at all marks to make sure everything is still lined up correctly. If so, remove the wedge, and clamps above. Put the large center nut on the shaft that holds the harmonic balancer. Crank it clockwise 4 full revolutions until the crank mark lines up again. Check the top marks which should be back in the position when you installed the belt. Re-install the harmonic balancer and SERP belt (good opportunity to replace that too). You should the be able to fire her up.
I’ve also used this same method when I have removed the cams...I didn’t remove the vvt hubs or buy a cam locking tool. You can still replace the seals on both ends by removing the sensor gear at the opposite end. You do have to rotate the cams a bit so the bolts on the sprocket straddle the cover & head. But it’s do-able. Same for putting it back together. It’s a little tougher in this situation getting the cams aligned after putting the cover back on, but get them as close as you can (paint marks at top) then use the big torx on the vvt hub to slowly bring it back into position. The vvt hubs have a little spring loaded play in them which helps.
I came up with this because I was a bit leery of removing the hubs & the re-setting it all. It was easier for me to comprehend it by using the “replace it the exact Same way it was removed” approach. It’s worked for me 3 times.
Hope this helps others