OH NO!!!

stoutlogic · Post by **stoutlogic** » 05 Oct 2006, 20:32

My guess is its not the head gasket, more likely the radiator is bad. Seen this many times. If the head gasket is bad you would typically experience coolant in the oil pan not necessarily oil in the coolant expansion tank.

I replaced the head gasket on my 98 V70 t-5 about 6 months ago. The manuals were all somewhat lacking. I ended up purchasing the complete cam alignment kit to make sure I wouldn't damage anything. The right tools always help. Not cheap but work great. This is what they look like:

Kit contains Volvo tools:

This is the top half of the head, cam locks in place:

The press tools in place, hard to see but look on the top of the head one on the left and one on the right:

I'm selling the tool kit, PM me if you're interested.

nctlspider · Post by **nctlspider** » 05 Jan 2008, 09:08

In response to sntee,

i will be doing my head gasket in the next few weekends, and will be fabbing up the Haynes tools. I will post a write up as classes and time permits once i am finished with this. Hopefully others will be able to use the information in the future. Great board by the way!

Cory

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Jan 2008, 10:19

My understanding is that those tools are very expensive. What kind of price are you talking about, stoutlogic? Have you sold the kit yet? If not:

Consider a rental service? The one who needs these tools pays "full price" for them (whatever you think they're worth), then you send them to him/her. When they are finished, they send them back and get a partial refund. Then you can keep doing this over and over. We would advertise for you here (I think Matthew would agree to this). Just a thought and it could be profitable for you (in the long run) as well as help out other Volvo owners who need use of the tools without having to actually "purchase" them.

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 05 Jan 2008, 17:22

Haynes manual shows how to make one. I made one and the 2 cams are not exactly even. They are paralell but off set a little. I just got steel and ground it down until it fit in the slots. Before you take anything apart,make your tool and fit it to the ends of the cam and bolt it down and then you know it is correct when you put things back

stoutlogic · Post by **stoutlogic** » 06 Jan 2008, 09:17

Sorry I haven't been following the original thread, but are we sure you really have a bad head gasket? I would make sure because while the job can be done parts of it are a real PIA. Moving on.

It's been a while since I replaced the head gasket and I did manage to sell the tool kit. Think I paid around $500 for it on Ebay and sold it for a little more than $400. Worked out being a good deal for both parties. I got to use the tool for $100. Only downside is obviously you have to front the cash and wait until you sell it to get your money back. New ones are always up for sale on Ebay for about $500.

A few tips as I remember them:

I have seen people create their own system for head gasket repair but as with everything in life the right tool for the job make your life a whole lot easier.

Remember to start with the #1 piston at TDC. Verify this with the timing marks on the cam sprockets and the crankshaft.

Do not remove the cam sprockets from the cams unless you mark their relation to each other and have the tool kit. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

If you remove the cam sprockets before you reinstall the cams you will need the tool kit regardless.

You will need to remove the sprockets eventually to replace the cam seals.

You can order a head gasket kit complete with new valve stem seals, exhaust gasket etc for little $. Wise investment.

Cam seals can be installed using a stub of muffler pipe with electrical tape on the edges to protect the seal. You can pick a 2- 3" length of exhaust pipe adapter in Autozone for a few bucks.

Consider a new water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, tension pulley, oil separator complete kit with vacuum hoses from FCP Groton or E europarts. Had good results buying from both.

Get yourself some zip lock baggies and a sharpie to place all the nuts and bolts in and label them as you remove them. Makes life much easier, trust me.

Pick up a can of aerosol Kroil oil or PB Blaster. Kroil is better but harder to find. You can buy it online from the manufacturer. Spray all the exhaust nuts and bolts a couple times a few days before you start. Does wonders.

Try to save the lock nuts and exhaust studs if you can. The Volvo dealer charges something like $6 per stud and $5 per nut. I about fell over; eventually left and reused my original parts.

Let me know if you need more help. I'll do my best to answer.