Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Post by **ZionXIX** » 14 Mar 2018, 19:58

erikv11 wrote: ↑14 Mar 2018, 17:46
If you are thinking of increasing the orifice size in the PTC, one very easy way to do that is to just pop off the whole copper plate, the one with the hole in it. I did that on my 850 R last fall, haven't yet seen any ill effects.

My comment about the CV's is thus: the aftermarket CV axles are almost all junk, whereas the factory axles can go beyond 300k. So you are on the right track as far as monitoring - no noise, no visible boot failure, it is fine.

I fairly sure the CV axles were reman volvo brand. I paid something like $1000 to get them replaced. That was before my mechanically inclined years. If they need replacing, I will doing it myself.

I was unaware that PTC copper plate would just pop off. Much easier than drilling.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 14 Mar 2018, 20:06

Now that we have a nice list of suggestions that somewhat align with my original thinking. If you had to place a priority on these items what would be the order?
Most damaging to least damaging?

1. Timing belt/water pump
2. PCV system
3. Tires because they are dry rotted
4. All rubber hoses
5. Ignition system
6. Motor mounts
7. Suspension because sprint seat and ball joint failures are not fun
8. damaged/non matching panel replacement --> because it hurts my soul to have a frankenstein car

This list may essentially become my stage goals for restoration.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Mar 2018, 20:45

I like the list order. Although if the ball joints are super loose, that is a safety issue you can't have those failing on the road. Visibly, horribly loose ball joints leap frog to the top of the list.

Volvo brand reman axles are probably A-OK.

I've never seen it posted about to pop off the PTC plate, but it made sense to try and was really easy to execute for me. You might be the 2nd to try it

: P80 PTC, dislodging the copper plate

: P80 PTC, copper plate removed

Post by **abscate** » 15 Mar 2018, 05:10

You just need to make sure that hole is open, some carb cleaner will rinse gunk out. There is no valve or mechanical parts here, the electrical connection is just a heater

Post by **ZionXIX** » 17 Mar 2018, 14:35

Im definitely going to try that removing that PTC copper plate. Some things I forgot to mention in my original history blurb. My front brake hoses are dissolving and I have a fuel tank leak when I fill all the way up so Im pretty sure its one of the hoses on top. So new brake hoses and fuel tank hoses are going near the top of the priority list. Does anyone have anything bad to say about the ATE brand hoses on FCP? I know the Volvo hoses actually way more reasonable than other brands at $21/piece but if ATE is the supplier then why not save myself the $20 on 2 hoses and of course there's that lifetime warranty.

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Mar 2018, 15:12

The ATE front brake hoses are great.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 17 Mar 2018, 22:49

ZionXIX wrote: ↑17 Mar 2018, 14:35 Im definitely going to try that removing that PTC copper plate. Some things I forgot to mention in my original history blurb. My front brake hoses are dissolving and I have a fuel tank leak when I fill all the way up so Im pretty sure its one of the hoses on top. So new brake hoses and fuel tank hoses are going near the top of the priority list. Does anyone have anything bad to say about the ATE brand hoses on FCP? I know the Volvo hoses actually way more reasonable than other brands at $21/piece but if ATE is the supplier then why not save myself the $20 on 2 hoses and of course there's that lifetime warranty.

I thought Volvo brake hoses were ATE. You can also get shiny exposed steel braided hose from FCP for a reasonable price, if you're into that.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 18 Mar 2018, 06:36

WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑17 Mar 2018, 22:49 I thought Volvo brake hoses were ATE. You can also get shiny exposed steel braided hose from FCP for a reasonable price, if you're into that.

The steel ones don't really interest me all that much. I was reading up on changing the rear brake hoses and quickly decided to not touch that job unless I have to. If I change the delta link bushings some day, then I may try the rear brake hoses.

FCP used to sell a 5 meter black vacuum hose kit but it doesn't seem to be there anymore. They do have the Volvo OEM hose at $23/meter. Thats a bit more expensive than I would like. I noticed that IPD sells the black silicone 5mm hose for $1.60/ft. Has anyone changed out all their small vacuum hoses with the IPD hose?

If anyone knows right off hand, if I exclude the TCV hoses, about how much hose would I need for all the smaller vacuum lines?

Post by **abscate** » 18 Mar 2018, 19:01

Did you check the crankcase vent passage way too!

Post by **ZionXIX** » 18 Mar 2018, 19:43

abscate wrote: ↑18 Mar 2018, 19:01 Did you check the crankcase vent passage way too!

Now that I think about it, no, no I did not clean that passageway. One of those life long regrets. Ill take a closer look at it when Im back in town. Something I though about doing, if I ever have to remove the oil pan I would like to drill a hole at the bottom of the oil passage and tap some threads for a small bolt or even an allen screw that would sit flush with the pan enabling the ability to inspect and clean the passageway at any time.

Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Re: Bringing her out of the Mothballs