a/c leak. Use or don't use stop-leak product?

[abscate]

Dash a bit different. We might need a good DIY pdf from the VRD

[JimBee]

Two problems I can foresee:
running into broken dash mounts and really stuck springlock connectors at the firewall.

I haven't tackled broken dash mounts but have read a couple of tutorials and viewed the pics. I'm wondering if ABS sheet stock (which I have) together with JB Weld might be a fairly easy fix that's very durable.

I have a tool idea for the springlock connectors, having fought with them on a couple of cars. It would be great to have a quick and reliable way to make those disconnects.

[abscate]

Jim..if they get stuck we Dremel them off in 15 seconds

You can also either rebuild the dash mounts orbbutyl tape the dash

[JimBee]

Ah, solutions. There's nothing like experience and a little Yankee ingenuity to get things done!

I did have a second thought about the stuck springlocks at the firewall. The problem getting those apart is with the pipes anchored to the coil you can't wiggle them loose. But, sure, cut them off, leaving enough of a stub to get hold of, and they're a lot easier to work apart! I did that with my dryer connector.

[abscate]

Start drenching the two 6mm hex head ALLEN bolts that hold the hard line in, right behind the right headlight

If those two come out, life is good and the hard lines, drier and compressor line will all come easily.

PB Blaster. Liquid Wrench. Kroil or zyour favourite

[JimBee]

I had those all apart last summer, so they'll come out easily.

[abscate]

Nissens is the Evap I’ve done in all the cars so far.

The kit list is

Nissens evaporator
2 sets of scantech oring kits
Receiver drier unless it got replaced with the conpresssor
, no need to do it again.
New orfice tube

[JimBee]

I have 2 96 850's. Last summer, I went through both systems, adjusted their clutch gap (shim removed), cleaned up all the seats in the o-ring connections and installed new o-rings.

I need to do a close check on all those connections to make sure that's not where I'm losing pressure. That would be an easy fix. Receiver driers were also replaced last summer, so those are as good as new. The flex hose union on the burgundy is suspect, I think the other one is tight. Those unions got new o-rings, but the large nuts go on really hard and it's tough to know when they've bottomed.

The compressors are used units. I had them off, took out a shim so gap is exactly spec (.3 mm IIRC) flushed them with fresh oil and added spec'd amount. The one I plan to change also got a new pulley bearing.

Both cars have a little over 200k, so they probably need new evaporators anyway.
So a close inspection is next up.

Which one will I do? The burgundy GLT is the nicer ride of the two, so I'll probably tackle that one first.

So I'll need the coil, orifice tube. Doesn't the coil come with new o-rings?

[abscate]

The orfice tube comes with orings , the Evap coil does not. The oring kit makes a valiant effort to include all orings but leaves you short. A couple of places use double orings and the guys at scantech are still on their first counting educational module.

If the evap are original and are still good you can probably fund this by submitting to the Guinness book of records.

[wizechatmgr]

The orfice tube comes with orings , the Evap coil does not. The oring kit makes a valiant effort to include all orings but leaves you short. A couple of places use double orings and the guys at scantech are still on their first counting educational module.

If the evap are original and are still good you can probably fund this by submitting to the Guinness book of records.

+1 on the count being off. At least two lines going to the evaporator have double o-rings.