Rough start/no start after tranny flush & b4 servo Topic is solved

[EngineeringBloke]

An alternator puts out about 14.7 volts DC with a little ripple (variation). As it spins faster, it is able to supply more current. The battery acts as a reservoir to support power when the alternator is not doing so.
The power drawn from the system includes the various parts of the electric system including lighting, audio, defrost, electric motors, pumps and solenoids, and engine spark.

TESTING

At idle with low load, the alternator should put out about 14.7 volts. If the engine is rev'ed up, then the voltage regulator should ensure the voltage does not rise above 15 volts or damage to circuits and components could result.

When the engine is not running, all the power comes from the battery. It should have about 12.5 volts. These based on my '06 S60. You may see some differences.

You can measure the voltages at the battery with a voltmeter, and have an assistant run the engine up to 3000 RPM in park with the handbrake on. Alternatively, you can control the engine, and have the readings called out to you. As, usually, the battery is too far away for the meter leads to reach the drivers seat. You could use the lighter socket if you are careful not to short the meter probes together and blow the accessory fuse, but it may need the key to be in position 1 or 2.

FAILURES

If the regulator fails, there may be no output from the alternator. Or, it may output too high a voltage.

There are also sets of diodes - rectifiers - to convert the alternator output from AC to DC. If one fails open circuit, the alternator output can be reduced, but this may be had to detect without seeing the waveform on an oscilloscope. If one fails closed circuit, then it can result in a drain on the battery.

If the battery is found to be drained overnight, then the battery may be aged, need reconditioning, or be affected by an unfixed parasitic power drain from a short circuit some where in the car, or a circuit that is just drawing more than expected power when ignition is off.

Over time, the engine grounding straps can oxidize and provide a poorer connection. I replaced mine this month as is was green and rusty. I saw an easier start after. Under $10 for an aftermarket 15 inch braided copper wire at an auto parts store. It links the top back of the engine to the firewall. Be careful not to drop the retaining bolt during strap replacement. Note, the same current that runs through the red power cable has to return via the ground connections so grounds are important.

BATTERY DRAIN

When the ignition is off, alarm, the remote sensor, and some other circuits are still powered. however, they should not draw much more than 0.05 to 0.1 amps. This can be measured with an amp meter, but note with the battery in the trunk, the trunk light will be on.

WARNING

After measuring current with a multi-meter, once the probes are removed from the circuit to be measured, change the meter from amps setting to volts, and move the probe wire from the amp socket to the volts socket on the meter, promptly. An amp meter is like a short and if placed to take a volt reading in amp mode, it will short and damage components in an expensive way!

[oragex]

In my limited experience 2001- mid 2004 alternators had fast charging regulators and pump round 14.6v when the battery is more discharged (as mentioned above) until the battery gets topped, then drop at 13.7v for the systems and to keep the battery full. Post mid2004 regulators stay rather steady at 13.7v because they are the slow charging type (slow charging extends the life of the battery)

As mentioned, if the B4 cover was fine, no need to replace it. Rather the piston inside (the piece with the long pin) can 'grab'. I also suspect the valve body does wear and causes a 'snapping' 2nd to 3rd upshifting , especially on a cold transmission (assuming the solenoids have already been replaced)

[Nathan79]

Ok. So this whole rabbits hole I went down over last couple years was all due to a crushed/smashed intake pipe...where it connects @ turbo. Over time it failed the ETM, & I thought that would be the end of it but, the shift flares never went away. Figured the pcv system was clogged after I had a failed glove test with "no pressure in or out" of oil filler tube... Decided to get new pcv trap box/hoses...and found very hardened sludge crap @ the ports for trap box...and again figured this was the end of my problems... Nope. So I spent a couple hours on this site and decided to pull the intake air pipe to check ptc nipple. And thats when I found the smashed intake pipe... Well, I've got a snaab pipe on there now and ZERO shift flares!!!
Thanks to all of you involved!
Nathan

[vtl]

Smoke machine would show all the holes in intake in like 30 seconds.