OBDII ---> VIDA

[Juniah1]

Wow, thanks for the replies guys. I guess I did come to the right place! In regards to why I bought the aftermarket coils, I assumed that could solve the misfire and it did, however it did not solve the RPM limiting. I will have to look into this PCV thing as I’m new to volvo as a brand. Also as an update I examined the wire harness going to the coils, and while they don’t look like they’re rubbing each other and shorting they have rubbed enough to make the copper wires exposed. Also, I’m not sure if this is the cause of the problem with the oil spill but there is a black rubber tube coming out of the top of the engine block. It is cracked and I’m guessing that is some sort of overfill tube?

EDIT: Pictures added. You can see on coil 2 the rubber wires and you can see the crack in the tube. I did order the VIDA DICE. It will be here in 8 days so I will update In regards to the VIDA then. Thanks in advance

[dj_v70]

That tube is part of your pcv system, that needs replaced. Bad news is you have to take off intake manifold to get to other side of that tube.

[RickHaleParker]

Have you cleared the codes since you installed the new coils? If not, clear the codes, see what comes back.

That hose is one of four hoses of the PCV system. Two of the other run along the driver's end of the engine. They are hard plastic lines and are more likely to be cracked/broken then the one on top.

[93SCMax]

Pretty obvious with your pics. At a minimum, you need a PCV job (to replace busted hose and stop your oil leak) and need to fix all open wiring. I'd fix the wiring, clear the codes and then see what happens. PCV issues won't throw those codes unless they are impacting the grounding of the coils.

Just a hint, your original coils could be good and your original issue was grounding and current flow. I'd still reinstall the originals after cleaning things up and fixing the wiring. The PCV job is a lot of work. Search other threads/instructions on what is needed.
Good luck.

[precopster]

You can replace that hose by removing the fan and using your fingers to do the work; tricky but doable. Volvo used a plastic hose with ribbing for flexiblility at the factory for later model years. So many of them cracked they went back to rubber.

The idle speed will be high when that hose is broken on later cars and can cause airleak codes. The PCV system must be sealed to stop this from happening.

[EngineeringBloke]

PCV hose

Good luck with the PCV tube replacement. I wonder if a temporary solution might be to use some high temperature tape and wrap the hose at the split. I don't think it is under very high pressure. On the other hand, I do like the idea of replacing it given its age.


Wiring harness misaligned

I see that the second coil's wires are exposed. The plastic wrap does deteriorate over time with age and heat, but the individual wires do not usually lose their insulation unless they get crimped by something. It looks like the wiring harness is positioned too far towards the back of the engine and the wires were exposed when the engine cover was tightened down over them!

The main coil wiring harness should lie in front of the back set of engine cover mounting holes. The right side is good, but the left side is out of position. This also explains why the ribbed wire wrap is missing for an inch by the second coil as that would be where the engine cover would press down on the harness. I suggest you inspect those wires to make sure they are not damaged.


Replacing coil 2 connector and wires

To avoid the wires getting oxidized, I would buy a new "Volvo S60 coil connector" with pigtail wires attached - I see some for under $20 on ebay with a search. Then attach them to the nearby wiring harness with a crimped butt splice or solder. Use a ribbed plastic cover to protect the new wires. If you are not happy about soldering or crimping, I would have a mechanic do the job, as it needs to be done well to ensure good spark.


Engine grounding strap oxidized

Also, the engine grounding strap looks very oxidized and in poor condition. It can be seen close to the back of the engine behind the exposed wires from the number 2 coil. It connects to the firewall. I would replace that strap to improve the engine ground. I am in the process of doing this on my own 2006 S60.


Coil grounding

Each coil is grounded to the engine through the coil mounting bolt, and there are two additional ground bolts connected to the coils wiring harness. One of these is between the second and third coil. The other may be hidden by the over-engine boost pipe. It is worth undoing all the coil bolts and the 2 ground bolts, cleaning both sides of the ring connector and the mating surface on the engine to improve the grounding there.

Increased resistance through the grounding results in reduced current flow through the coils so is not good and can lessen the spark.

[EngineeringBloke]

I take back my comment about taping the PCV hose as a temporary fix. First, I suspect the hose will fall apart if moved. Secondly, you will need new clamps, and if getting those, find the replacement hose which can be installed without the removal of much more than the engine covers. Take a look at the comments in the reviews of the PCV hose from FCP under $30 from them, and should be available from other sources, too:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 17#reviews

Full PCV maintenance is still recommended. Swedespeed forum has a great thread on this with updates in the comment - worth a read although it is for the S60R:

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... case-Vent)



Replacing engine grounding strap

Yesterday, I replaced my engine grounding strap with a 15 inch Dorman one from a local auto parts place - it was about $6. I used a contact cleaner on both ends of the strap and the bolts and bolt holes.

Engine sounds smoother, starts easier and seems to have more power.

Unclip the black plastic wire guide from the left cross engine mount and lift it up out of the way of the engine ground bolt near the firewall. You can leave the wire in the guide as there is slack. This is not the ground wire. There is a hose that you will have to work around. Bolt is 10mm and be careful not to drop it.

I can recommend this step on older cars showing corrosion of the engine ground strap.

I think the reason this replacement has such an high impact on the engine is that when the earthing copper braid is corroded and combined with CO2 to create the green copper carbonate patina (Copper oxide is black), then there is increased resistance between the wires of the braid and also the surface of the braid. The braid may have a very low DC resistance and measure well with a voltmeter, but when the coils fire, there is an impulse that has high frequency energy. That current mostly flows on the outsides of the wires in the braid, and even jumps between those wires to avoid the inside of the braid - electron charge repels the electrons - skin effect. With this increased resistance (electrical impedance), the coil surge does not flow as well as it would in a clean wire.