The OP did a top end rebuild. The battery will have been disconnected. Going to the smog station shortly after would have found the emissions were not yet ready. In this case, it was nothing to do with a MIL code or light, just the result of clearing of the memory from no power.
My transmission computer has a glitch, and I have to clear the MIL light from time to time so I can tell if another issue has arisen. It can take a week for the emissions to become ready. The same readiness issue occurs if the battery is disconnected, which is what the OP saw.
My ELM ODB2 Bluetooth adapter and Torque app on my phone show the emissions readiness status. I have heard several different drive cycles being needed but this is the first time I had heard of a Volvo reference. I would not have thought that whether the transmission was automatic or manual would have any bearing on the issue.
2004 S60R computer relearn, drive cycle Topic is solved
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EngineeringBloke
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swedehast
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Hi All
I looked all your suggestions over plus some from swedespeed and others. My conclusion is simply on a AT the TCU will create the shifts and log the points. Manual will have to create the data points so it was either " just drive it " until a collection of data was sufficient, or follow a procedure to shorten the time to collect enough data.
The underlying issue was the car was out of registration and wasn't supposed to be on the road,,,,,, hence ergo catch 22. I just drove it and wasn't stopped.
The car passed smog fine.,
THEN on the way home, my wife driving up a hill 2 lane hwy the MAF puked and the car shut down, had to be towed ......
When I got home I disconnected the MAF and as expected programming took over and drives fine. New MAF in today
BUT I do have a different question in terms of the active suspension. If I were to disconnect the battery, when reconnected does the 4C programming re-calibrate ?
THANKS ALL for your great help
I looked all your suggestions over plus some from swedespeed and others. My conclusion is simply on a AT the TCU will create the shifts and log the points. Manual will have to create the data points so it was either " just drive it " until a collection of data was sufficient, or follow a procedure to shorten the time to collect enough data.
The underlying issue was the car was out of registration and wasn't supposed to be on the road,,,,,, hence ergo catch 22. I just drove it and wasn't stopped.
The car passed smog fine.,
THEN on the way home, my wife driving up a hill 2 lane hwy the MAF puked and the car shut down, had to be towed ......
When I got home I disconnected the MAF and as expected programming took over and drives fine. New MAF in today
BUT I do have a different question in terms of the active suspension. If I were to disconnect the battery, when reconnected does the 4C programming re-calibrate ?
THANKS ALL for your great help
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jimmy57
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No worries on 4C from batt disconnect. It is not adaptive but if new parts are added the calibration has to be done. Calibration is nothing more than to level the car, center steering wheel, and click the button on VIDA. The values of all these sensors is registered so the motionless level car values are the zero points. These are not lost from battery disconnect.
The TCM is learning the shift completion time at few different load points when it adapts. It is NOT learning your driving style. The mission of the software is to make the trans last and shift nice. Too quick shifitng is also harsh. Too slow shifting is slipping some amount and causes wear. Torque converter lock is also adapted. The only thing that is approaching artificial intelligence (not too far along the AI path) is the TCM seeing into throttle moderate to aggressive and then out of throttle for a qualifying period. When this is done at least 3 cycles within a short time span then the trans will stop upshifting on lift throttle. This is the TCM more or less figuring out that you are a road with hairpin corners or repetitive corners and to hold gear to avoid all the busy-ness of the upshifts and downshifts that would otherwise happen.
The TCM is learning the shift completion time at few different load points when it adapts. It is NOT learning your driving style. The mission of the software is to make the trans last and shift nice. Too quick shifitng is also harsh. Too slow shifting is slipping some amount and causes wear. Torque converter lock is also adapted. The only thing that is approaching artificial intelligence (not too far along the AI path) is the TCM seeing into throttle moderate to aggressive and then out of throttle for a qualifying period. When this is done at least 3 cycles within a short time span then the trans will stop upshifting on lift throttle. This is the TCM more or less figuring out that you are a road with hairpin corners or repetitive corners and to hold gear to avoid all the busy-ness of the upshifts and downshifts that would otherwise happen.
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swedehast
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Thanks Jimmy
I thought I had it figured, in the rear the 4C seems overdamped at the beginning of the stroke, on square edge the thing skates, I think " they all did ". I'd seen where someone ( WITH VIDA, I don't have ) set a bunch of weight in the trunk, settled the car a bit ( 1/2 in to 1 in ) then let the VIDA do a calibration. Once he took the weight out of the trunk, the rear was much better behaved.
On another note however, I did receive NEW Bosch OEM MAF for the 04S60R. I installed this morning, fired it up and no idle, runs really rough. Will idle / run well with the MAF unplugged. So I'm stumped, the car popped on a shift going up a hill and died with the wife driving it. When I got to it I unplugged the MAF and drove it home. ( This happened on one of my 850T's )
I just bought a new MAF to be correct, but obviously it wasn't the MAF. I can drive it around with the thing unplugged, but that's cheesy. My ( Innova ) OBD shows no codes ??????
This is a new one for me.
I thought I had it figured, in the rear the 4C seems overdamped at the beginning of the stroke, on square edge the thing skates, I think " they all did ". I'd seen where someone ( WITH VIDA, I don't have ) set a bunch of weight in the trunk, settled the car a bit ( 1/2 in to 1 in ) then let the VIDA do a calibration. Once he took the weight out of the trunk, the rear was much better behaved.
On another note however, I did receive NEW Bosch OEM MAF for the 04S60R. I installed this morning, fired it up and no idle, runs really rough. Will idle / run well with the MAF unplugged. So I'm stumped, the car popped on a shift going up a hill and died with the wife driving it. When I got to it I unplugged the MAF and drove it home. ( This happened on one of my 850T's )
I just bought a new MAF to be correct, but obviously it wasn't the MAF. I can drive it around with the thing unplugged, but that's cheesy. My ( Innova ) OBD shows no codes ??????
This is a new one for me.
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EngineeringBloke
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I put in a new Bosch MAF a couple of weeks ago. I seemed to get better boost for a day or two, and then suddenly lost some power. I did not check it out when I got home and the next morning the car would not start. I opened the hood and saw that my iPD silicone over-engine pipe coupler had detached from the over-engine pipe at the turbo. I disconnected the MAF and it started right up. Later, I adjusted the position of the coupler a little higher on the turbo, so that the upper clamp could be tightened without sliding off the coupler!
Anyway, perhaps you have an air leak and the new MAF is picking up on it. I am unclear why disconnecting the MAF works, but it helped in this case, early in the morning when I had to leave for work.
I am confident that I cleaned the prior MAF correctly, taking out the sensor (removing the security screws) and using CRC MAF spray on both the temperature sensor component and the hot film surface. There were no codes for it. However, the new MAF clearly gave me better performance. I have not timed it but I think my 0-60 went from 9 seconds to 7 seconds. I still have the old one and intend to investigate the behavior of each when I get my VIDA unit.
Anyway, perhaps you have an air leak and the new MAF is picking up on it. I am unclear why disconnecting the MAF works, but it helped in this case, early in the morning when I had to leave for work.
I am confident that I cleaned the prior MAF correctly, taking out the sensor (removing the security screws) and using CRC MAF spray on both the temperature sensor component and the hot film surface. There were no codes for it. However, the new MAF clearly gave me better performance. I have not timed it but I think my 0-60 went from 9 seconds to 7 seconds. I still have the old one and intend to investigate the behavior of each when I get my VIDA unit.
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jimmy57
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The pop makes me think you blew a hose off or a hole in it somewhere. The MAF is sending way too high or way too low signal. Unplugged the default is close to correct A/F ratio.
If the weight in trunk and calibrate deal worked, my suspicion would be the shock damping profile for a vehicle with higher ride height is covering bad shocks. Bad shocks could be wear in the control valves and not just wear or leakage.
If the weight in trunk and calibrate deal worked, my suspicion would be the shock damping profile for a vehicle with higher ride height is covering bad shocks. Bad shocks could be wear in the control valves and not just wear or leakage.
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swedehast
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Thanks Jimmy
My first thought was a hose, but then I felt( depending on the hose ) an open intake wouldn't be compensated for by the default....
On the 4C, there has been many attempts to tame the harshness of the rear, if you go back and look at the original Car & Driver review of the 04 S60R, they complained about it hunting and skating on anything but glassy smooth roads.
I'm guessing my issues have more to do with wear, the car has 170K on it and I bought it used with 150K. I didn't buy it because I have latent teenager urges ( well not too many anyway ), I've had "R" models that have been robust and reliable, and I've had 7 volvo's. But I have to say this one has been a challenge. The main reason I rebuilt it after one of the #3 ex valves burned through is because I wouldn't get anything for it parted out, and I'd have to spend a lot more getting a replacement ride. The rebuild feels great, very strong, but it's always a pain dealing with " the little things " Thanks for your advice
My first thought was a hose, but then I felt( depending on the hose ) an open intake wouldn't be compensated for by the default....
On the 4C, there has been many attempts to tame the harshness of the rear, if you go back and look at the original Car & Driver review of the 04 S60R, they complained about it hunting and skating on anything but glassy smooth roads.
I'm guessing my issues have more to do with wear, the car has 170K on it and I bought it used with 150K. I didn't buy it because I have latent teenager urges ( well not too many anyway ), I've had "R" models that have been robust and reliable, and I've had 7 volvo's. But I have to say this one has been a challenge. The main reason I rebuilt it after one of the #3 ex valves burned through is because I wouldn't get anything for it parted out, and I'd have to spend a lot more getting a replacement ride. The rebuild feels great, very strong, but it's always a pain dealing with " the little things " Thanks for your advice
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