1995 850 GLT poor running, bad Bremi off brand MAF Topic is solved

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 11 Nov 2018, 17:31

vovo850 wrote: 11 Nov 2018, 09:32 It was a plastic rent a tool from a local auto parts store.
it locked up front

Okay, then you shouldn't have to worry about the cams themselves being out of alignment. Just focus on the timing marks on the sprockets.

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 11 Nov 2018, 17:58

bmdubya1198 wrote: 11 Nov 2018, 17:31
vovo850 wrote: 11 Nov 2018, 09:32 It was a plastic rent a tool from a local auto parts store.
it locked up front
Okay, then you shouldn't have to worry about the cams themselves being out of alignment. Just focus on the timing marks on the sprockets.

read my first post, it came loose and the cams moved

crlande · Post by **crlande** » 11 Nov 2018, 18:21

You did not take sprockets off the camshafts, correct?

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 11 Nov 2018, 19:12

crlande wrote: 11 Nov 2018, 18:21 You did not take sprockets off the camshafts, correct?

correct, just moved them back to where the marks we made before we started.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 12 Nov 2018, 08:03

vovo850 wrote: 11 Nov 2018, 17:58 read my first post, it came loose and the cams moved

I know, what I meant was that the sprockets were not moved independently of the camshafts. From what I understand, the tool came loose and one of the cams shifted.

Like I said, as long as you did not remove either of the cam sprockets, you can use the timing marks on the sprockets to align the cams again.

Post by **misha** » 12 Nov 2018, 09:49

There is no rush in this job...just take one step at a time,think and everything must end up well.

Don't remove spark plugs,this will prevent things from moving while you install the belt.

After you're done....turn the engine a few revolutions by hand...re-check the ALL marks and if everything is ok...start the engine.

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 12 Nov 2018, 19:08

Yea slow and steady, I took the weekend to do this job with a guy who has done dual cam belts before and still borked it.
I feel better knowing I can move the cams to the marks and be good without special tools.
Let me ask this though, is it obvious when you turn the the crank by hand if you are smacking the pistons?
Is it a feel or something you hear? I don't plan on this happening since the marks are close now as is.
It's just good knowledge to know for reference.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Nov 2018, 19:56

By hand you would meet resistance when a piston hits a valve and be unable to go any further. You'd be unable to bend the valves by hand.

You can move the cams all you want, any which way, when the crank is on the timing mark. Be sure to get it there before you do anything else. Putting the crank on the mark positions all of the pistons away from the reach of the valves, at that point you can spin the cams around if you want.

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 17 Nov 2018, 14:49

It definitely appears my notch is the single one like the first picture Lee pointed out and posted
(thank you again for that picture)
What a bear to see with these eyes of mine. Also appears I'm about 2 teeth off the marks..
I swear we had those marks lined up but I also am pretty sure we didn't have the crank lined up correctly.
I just figured as hard as it was to turn if the cam marks were left the way we found them when we started it all "should" be the same when put back together. Bad assumption.. Well wish me some good wrenching, I'm about to remove tensioner and start over.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 17 Nov 2018, 18:45

I remember the old Subaru engine I replaced heads on - took me three tries to get the timing on that sucker right.