Oil Pump Leak? Topic is solved

[dj_v70]

You really shouldn’t feel strong vacuum, at least not on earlier P2s. That is reason for glove test, you really shouldn’t feel vacuuum or pressure, but you should see vacuum with glove only.

Please read this: viewtopic.php?t=34754

Note that he could feel vacuum with his hand. I believe that is a yellow flag. Is your vacuum that strong? On mine, I put finger over dipstick tube and it sucked on it like a baby.

Recommend clean engine as already suggested and look for multiple leaks. If so, then don’t discount PCV.

[XC70Rider]

Hi Herman,

After removing the timing cover yesterday I found old dirty crud below the Crankshaft pulley. I scrubbed off as much as possible then dried it with air compressor. After driving 82 miles today I removed the cover again and found no fresh oil. With a clean PCV the seal might no longer be leaking? Since I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump I might as well install a new oil pump gasket kit. It'll be delivered next week from FCP.

When I have the time to tackle this project the Indie shop across town will loan their 5545 tool pipe used to install the seal.

John

Two topics: 1) Positive pressure and seals. Basically the seals we are discussing (crank and/or cam) are a pliable material that encircle the crank and/or cam. Most seals have a circular spring that keeps the force on the contact region of the crank and/or cam. Some newer seals have a different pliable material that is springless. The amount of force the pliable material exerts has to be just right, too much and it will wear rapidly and/or wear the crank and/or cam, but too little and it will allow oil or another fluid to pass by causing a leak. Seals will leak if they are not "square' when installed, the pliable material is no longer pliable (age and heat), the seal is the wrong size and/or type (cannot properly encircle), the seal is worn (use, age and/or heat), the seal is damaged (something hit it breaching the seal), the seal wore a groove into the cam and/or crank or the positive pressure from the inside of the seal (whether coolant, oil or air pressure) pushes the seal so it cannot properly encircle the cam and/or camshaft (and of course all of the above or a combination).

Seal life depends on application, quality, environment - but generally seals have a life usage estimate. Oil pump seals usually last a long time as do cam shaft seals. I have read people getting over 200k on them. But I have seen people get leaky seals at 100k. Never know. But before replacing a seal the PCV system should be eliminated as a cause because if the replacement seal doesn't leak another seal will start - the positive pressure is pushing the seal outwards. Remove the pressure and the seal can do its job.

As to your second question. You do not need to have a Dice reader to pull up instructions in VIDA. So if you do some searching you can download VIDA get it up and running. From there just manually type in your VIN or vehicle specs and pull up what you need. If you want to communicate with the vehicle you will need the DICE unit.

[XC70Rider]

.....You do not need to have a Dice reader to pull up instructions in VIDA. So if you do some searching you can download VIDA get it up and running. From there just manually type in your VIN or vehicle specs and pull up what you need. If you want to communicate with the vehicle you will need the DICE unit.

Hi Herman,

I finally got VIDA successfully installed on my laptop. Previously all I could operate was VMPlayer.

VIDA states to install 4 new mounting bolts for the oil pump. Has any member safely re-used the oil pump bolts? Been searching for those mounting bolts part number but cannot find them.

Thanks,

John

[SuperHerman]

Nice progress getting VIDA to run.

I reused my mounting bolts.

VIDA also has a parts section - did you check there?

[RickHaleParker]

VIDA states to install 4 new mounting bolts for the oil pump. Has any member safely re-used the oil pump bolts? Been searching for those mounting bolts part number but cannot find them.

In Vida: Search tab/Search for: Part description / "Oil Pump"/ Title: Lubricating system 5CYL / Part #6: Six point socket screw, QTY 4.00, Part number 987348.

Some of the online Volvo dealers have them for $2.10 each + shipping.

[XC70Rider]

After playing more with VIDA it sure is worth every penny. It's lists all repairs and parts needed, engine monitoring......I'm sure I'll discover more it time to come!

[XC70Rider]

Finally got started on my restoration project yesterday.

1. Timing belt, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt
2. Water pump, Thermostat, RAD hoses, coolant flush
3. Oil pump gasket, ring, & seal
4. Drop Oil Sump

Since it warmed up 60F I already drained the coolant, flushed with garden hose then refilled & drained with distilled water twice.

With the oil drained is it safe to rotate the engine to get the timing marks aligned? I've hand turned other empty engines but not sure if it safe to do so on the 2.5T?

[SuperHerman]

Should not be a problem to rotate by hand. If you are worried, pour a small amount (1/2 a cap) into each spark plug hole. If you have any engine fogging oil that would also suffice. You should have enough residual oil, but you do have a valid concern if the engine has been sitting a long time.

[XC70Rider]

I'll be adding in BG109 Engine Performance Restoration before the drain. Since I'm changing the pan and crankshaft seals might as well give it a good cleanse. After oil drain I'll add in desiel via the oil cap and dipstick then let it drip overnight. To dilute the desiel I'll add in cheap oil 2x before finishing the project.

Before dropping the pan I'll line up the timing marks. After reinstalling the pan, new water pump, thermostat and oil pump seals I'll add in cheap oil.

The timing belt, tensioner, idler, and serpentine belt will be the final tasks.

[Mike Langlois]

I just spent a few weeks and a few $$ fighting the same sort of problem on a 2002 V70 X/C. Clean it well: take the tires and splash guards off. I cleaned a few times, then the cam seal fell out on the exhaust side. After resealing the Whole motor, Oil pump gaskets (and o-ring?), new power steering reservoir and hoses, new PCV/coolant hose (the $210.00 unit only available at Volvo), new PCV box/ hoses, the front right drive shaft, fuel injection o-rings/ hose and assorted cooling hoses, the leak seems to be solved. Why do we do this?