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Water in the intake manifold and intercooler V70 T5

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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abscate
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Re: Water in the intake manifold and intercooler V70 T5

Post by abscate »

I will go with 95% that your head gasket blew with a coolant to cylinder blow.

Look how nice and clean #4 is scoured clean compared to the others, both the piston and the valve train above.

The other 5% is Ms Pac-Man in cylinder 3 ate everything in cylinder 4 and just moved on to cylinder 3....
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Post by tnkenmcd »

abscate wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 18:23 I will go with 95% that your head gasket blew with a coolant to cylinder blow.

Look how nice and clean #4 is scoured clean compared to the others, both the piston and the valve train above.

The other 5% is Ms Pac-Man in cylinder 3 ate everything in cylinder 4 and just moved on to cylinder 3....
Makes sense, yeah #4 is the one where that charring burn over the gasket in my 2nd pic. I had seen a few (2D :)) examples on the web about that type of failure.

My local machine shop recommended by our BMW mechanic (I won't touch those things with a tool) has quoted $220 to clean the head/cover, inspect, mill it flat, insert my valve stem seals, and re-work the valve seats. Thinking that's a decent price?

I'm gonna check the cylinder walls real good like suggested. Kind of scared to move the crank. Really couldn't find the crank timing mark to start. Maybe now that everything is off I can find it. Regardless, I'm planning to get that eBay toolkit with valve cover press and crank timing tool.

If everything is OK, I'll order all the other stuff once I hear the head is good.

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Post by tardcart »

water was definitely getting in number 4 by how clean the valves and piston are. . You will have to make sure the metal loss under the gasket is taken care of. maby compression is bad in 4 due to prolong=ed operation with water. looks like you ran it a long time this way. might be needing an engine swap. that price is great but might be better to use the money for a new engine. If you ran it this way for six months no point in repairing anything.

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Post by tnkenmcd »

tardcart wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 19:43 water was definitely getting in number 4 by how clean the valves and piston are. . You will have to make sure the metal loss under the gasket is taken care of. maby compression is bad in 4 due to prolong=ed operation with water. looks like you ran it a long time this way. might be needing an engine swap. that price is great but might be better to use the money for a new engine. If you ran it this way for six months no point in repairing anything.
Dunno how long it was failing. I stopped driving it when the white smoke blew out. But I admit to overheating it before a few times while dealing with a bad radiator, which I finally replaced.... and then the gasket blew.... heheh

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Post by abscate »

Cylinder head off, clean, skim, check flat. New Volvo head gasket, good to go

About 20 hours of work being careful
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Post by tnkenmcd »

abscate wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 21:52 Cylinder head off, clean, skim, check flat. New Volvo head gasket, good to go
Dude, I am really tempted to do just that, along with maybe drill-lapping the valves and be done. But I figure with all the work to get here it doesn't seem possible to do this even remotely "right" without a full gasket kit, plus there's no way I'm reusing a lot of those manifold bolts/studs. The wagon part of my vehicle is chock full of engine parts and baggies of separated hardware.

Oh yeah, this is the 2nd V70 T5 I have. The other is 2002 and is OK, but plain boring white, where this HG one is silver with tint and interior upgrade.

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Post by abscate »

You give the manifold stud work to the machine shop. With the head off, that’s easy work for them

You never reuse cylinder head bolts or gaskets.
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Post by tnkenmcd »

RickHaleParker wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 10:40With your finger tip, feel for a channel of damage between pistons and water jackets.
I started cleaning the block a bit to check it out. Spun the crank around and did an initial check of the cylinder walls. So far, couldn't find a scratch or groove by fingertip and nothing is catching on a fingernail. I can feel some parts on each cylinder towards the top where there is a full-circle slight bump or change in diameter. Probably just the cylinder wear I guess.

I put a straight edge on the 3 straight/diagonal positions and used a flashlight. No gaps, but yeah, I need to go back and use a feeler gauge.

What can I safely use for cleaning the pistons, cylinder walls, top-of-block? What kind of brush is OK? Brass?

I should be worried about jamming dirt & stuff between piston and cylinder wall (the rings)?

Once I can confirm on my own the block is acceptable, I'm taking the head to the shop. Guy said he wants the head with valves, springs, lifters, camshafts. And he'll take the cover to clean it but didn't actually need it for the main job. Once I know from him the head is usable I'll start doing the work I can do for reassembly with the head off.

Thanks for the advice along the way. Helpful

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Post by RickHaleParker »

tnkenmcd wrote: 03 May 2019, 18:48 So far, couldn't find a scratch or groove by fingertip and nothing is catching on a fingernail. I can feel some parts on each cylinder towards the top where there is a full-circle slight bump or change in diameter. Probably just the cylinder wear I guess.
I was talking about the head gasket but it does not hurt to check the condition of the rest.
What can I safely use for cleaning the pistons, cylinder walls, top-of-block? What kind of brush is OK? Brass?
Seafoam decomposes carbon. WD-40 & Scotch-Brite. There is more then one grit of Scotch-Brite.
Just keep in mind your objective is to cut off the crud not work the metal. Light pressure on the pad, let the pad cut the crud not shovel the crud.
I should be worried about jamming dirt & stuff between piston and cylinder wall (the rings)?
Only if you think you can exert more force then an exploding air/fuel mixture.
Guy said he wants the head with valves, springs, lifters, camshafts. And he'll take the cover to clean it but didn't actually need it for the main job.
Smart guy. The only way he can be sure it goes back together correctly and without defects is to do the whole job.
If you got solid tappets, they do need to go back in the correct order.
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Post by tnkenmcd »

RickHaleParker wrote: 03 May 2019, 19:58
tnkenmcd wrote: 03 May 2019, 18:48I should be worried about jamming dirt & stuff between piston and cylinder wall (the rings)?
Only if you think you can exert more force then an exploding air/fuel mixture.
Made my Friday

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