The starter inhibitor circuit must have another function like limiting the length of a crank.
The only other posability I can see is to fake the signal at pin B:22 of the ECM.
Somebody would need to scope B:22 and see what going on there.
The starter inhibitor circuit must have another function like limiting the length of a crank.
I think that is the code the 4/22 generates from reading the key from the antenna, and that it changes. Thats going to be tough hack.RickHaleParker wrote: ↑21 May 2019, 09:38The starter inhibitor circuit must have another function like limiting the length of a crank.
The only other posability I can see is to fake the signal at pin B:22 of the ECM.
Somebody would need to scope B:22 and see what going on there.
Make sure you know where you are harvesting so that you don’t brick your only key. That’s a big costly fubarwrybread wrote: ↑21 May 2019, 19:37 Well I got a non chipped key cut today ($55), it works fine to open all doors and turn the ignition, but I can confirm that the engine then cuts off. With a chipped key the engine starts and then immediately drops down to idle. With the non chipped key the engine starts and then cuts off when it would normally drop to idle.
Holding my chip key to the antenna (ignition), the range is indeed tiny.
I'm planning to open the chipped key to extract it's chip and glue it to the ignition so I can use non chipped keys, if anyone sees any problem with this approach please let me know.
Get a second antenna. Find or fabricate a plastic disk that fits in the antenna ring*. Affix the RFID chip to the plastic disk. This should give you good placement of the RFID chip to the antenna ring. If the antenna ever goes bad, you can just transfer the RFID chip to another one.