Considering an trans-plant on a 280K 04 XC70 Topic is solved

[E Showell]

I've got 170k on my 15 y/o XC70 with no Haldex work of which I am aware to date. Guess I better start reading up.

[- Pete -]

Hi Pete. Is the Haldex oil pump original on your 15 year old XC70 with 280k+ miles? I've read they usually only last a decade on the Haldex 3. I replaced the oscillation damper, DEM sensor, and installing a new Volvo brand Haldex oil pump on Friday. My 2007 Xc70 is just approaching 130k miles.

As far as I know it's original.
I can check the records prior to us purchasing it in 2012 @ 127k miles.
Since then I've done everything to the car.

[- Pete -]

Can the pump be opened up and brushes replaced, or is it a pump replacement kinda thing?

Yes, brushes can be done.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Haldex-AOC-Pum ... Sw2C1ampXt

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Haldex-AOC-Gen ... SwBOFbolsd

This next one is just basic, but very inexpensive. Guess if you were that far into it why not replace the bearings & such as seen in the pricier kits

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Haldex-AOC-Gen ... SwfHJa-Ul2

[XC70Rider]

I purchased this rebuild kit last week

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Haldex-AOC-Gen ... 2749.l2649

Along with a new connector kit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VAG-Volvo-Seat ... 2749.l2649

When they arrive sometime next week I'll rebuild the OEM oil pump.

[- Pete -]

I'd be very interested in seeing your rebuild process.
Thrifty is good, especially if it's decent parts & the outcome is functional.


Edit:

Today, 09:20
Hi Pete. Is the Haldex oil pump original on your 15 year old XC70 with 280k+ miles? I've read they usually only last a decade on the Haldex 3. I replaced the oscillation damper, DEM sensor, and installing a new Volvo brand Haldex oil pump on Friday. My 2007 Xc70 is just approaching 130k miles.

I went through all the dealer documentation back to 25,000 miles & there's no mention of ever changing the filter, oil, OR pump in the AOC. I'm pretty sure its the original pump & filter. I should have saved the filter & cut it open.

I did change the oil in it at maybe 160k, but that is it.
Pretty impressive to go almost 300,000 miles & just have it begin to show signs that something wasn't perfect.
After I changed the filter, screen, replaced oil I ran it maybe 300 miles & none of the previous sensations were evident. I did not prime the pump after re-installing it. I faintly remember that being a suggestion. Being that it sits at the lowest point of the case & it spins anytime the vehicle is running I'm not seeing how priming it would make a difference.

I haven't driven it lately because I need to replace the 0-rings on the pump & also do cam/crank/oil pump seals & PCV system on it.

One thing I did notice when I was reinstalling the pump was this - where the connectors are located it is very possible that there can be small stones sitting up there in the crevice between the two receptacles. I couldn't get a very good vantage point to see these tiny stones, but I also knew I could not get the one connector to seat fully. I used a pick to unwedge the stones, then blew some compressed air up there and both connectors gave up positive "clicks".

[XC70Rider]

I'd be very interested in seeing your rebuild process.
Thrifty is good, especially if it's decent parts & the outcome is functional.


Edit:

Today, 09:20
Hi Pete. Is the Haldex oil pump original on your 15 year old XC70 with 280k+ miles? I've read they usually only last a decade on the Haldex 3. I replaced the oscillation damper, DEM sensor, and installing a new Volvo brand Haldex oil pump on Friday. My 2007 Xc70 is just approaching 130k miles.

I went through all the dealer documentation back to 25,000 miles & there's no mention of ever changing the filter, oil, OR pump in the AOC. I'm pretty sure its the original pump & filter. I should have saved the filter & cut it open.

I did change the oil in it at maybe 160k, but that is it.
Pretty impressive to go almost 300,000 miles & just have it begin to show signs that something wasn't perfect.
After I changed the filter, screen, replaced oil I ran it maybe 300 miles & none of the previous sensations were evident. I did not prime the pump after re-installing it. I faintly remember that being a suggestion. Being that it sits at the lowest point of the case & it spins anytime the vehicle is running I'm not seeing how priming it would make a difference.

I haven't driven it lately because I need to replace the 0-rings on the pump & also do cam/crank/oil pump seals & PCV system on it.

One thing I did notice when I was reinstalling the pump was this - where the connectors are located it is very possible that there can be small stones sitting up there in the crevice between the two receptacles. I couldn't get a very good vantage point to see these tiny stones, but I also knew I could not get the one connector to seat fully. I used a pick to unwedge the stones, then blew some compressed air up there and both connectors gave up positive "clicks".

My oil pump was working fine but to get the driveshaft CV joint out I had to cut the oscillation damper

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=80803&start=60

At the JY 2 weeks ago I picked up a DEM from a different model. Both connectors on that DEM had sand in them. I'm having a connectivity issue with the DEM. It cannot read oil pressure at times so getting DEM-0007 code. I broke the sensor that reads pressure and had to replace it with a new one. I may of broken the sensor's internal contact within the DEM. Swapping connectors from the JY DEM onto my OEM DEM should fix the DEM-0007. If it does then I'll just rebuild the OEM oil pump and return the $280 new one.

[- Pete -]

I assume you cut into your oscillation damper cuz it seemed impossible to free the driveshaft from it otherwise?

I considered something along those lines, but removing the front of the driveshaft from the bevel gear output taught me a different trick.

See theses two circled holes on the input flange/oscillation damper? These two are NOT threaded.

I took a bolt about the same size diameter as the 6 that came out (don’t use one of the 6 you removed), about 3” in length, fed it through from the back side of the flange, then used a long pry bar to exert force on the head of that bolt. This forced the CV joint forward, out of the oscillation damper. To get the joint fully free of the flange I had to disconnect the hanger bearing (2 bolts), exhaust center support (4 bolts), and also disconnect the front of the driveshaft from the bevel gear output flange.
Then just blast the 24mm nut off with your impact.


So if your AWD was working why did you remove the pump? Just for inspection & cleaning/filter replacement?

[XC70Rider]

Removed it just for basic maintenance to fully clean out Hakdex oil. The oscillation damper was so badly rusted I knew if I waited any longer it would be impossible to remove the driveshaft. I did get the CV joint out of the bevel gear successfully. I tried your method of prying the rear CV joints out of the damper with bolts but it wouldn't budge. If you read that thread I also threw on new CV joints.

[- Pete -]

Mine was pretty crusty too, 15 winters of MN salted roads!

After liberally applying Kroil, I first tried smaller pry bars, eventually worked my way up to about a 4’ footer and out she came. Pinion seal remained perfect.

[greg850r]

Could this be a Haldex (AWD) issue and not a trans issue? I am not familiar with failing Haldex symptoms, but I'll bet some folks on here are.

I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU to E Showell for a very excellent (yet very easy to overlook!) suggestion.

I and a couple car guys I know all were of the same mindset after feeling this sensation many times - that is was front biased.

Looks like I need to eat some humble pie.

I ended up putting the car on the lift, pulled the driveshaft (completely), removed input flange on the Haldex/rear diff, removed DEM pump, removed filter, cleaned pump screen, replaced filter & new finned cover, filled with new Volvo AOC oil and have put maybe 300 miles on with NO abnormal sensations under significant acceleration, in any gear!

I can make a writeup for removing driveshaft from input/outputs on both front and rear bevel gears/haldex if anyone needs it.

I'm getting ready to service front and rear haldex units for the occasional 'hose skipping' symptom and I think having the driveshaft out would make life easier. Am I wrong?