Burnt ignition coil Topic is solved

[jimmy57]

Yes, the real reason is manufacturing costs. Serviceability is only a primary issue for certain items with things with low anticipated service needs getting little concern for service. Every car has to be manufactured and large unit component installation being the way to go in any case where that works as it reduces labor and time. The blower motor and recirc door location is a design that allows the unit to be used on LHD or RHD models and lowers cost for that unit. P5 and P6 are back to using side blower design as those HVAC units, particularly the P5, need more air distribution space to give the extra zones.

[vbertone]

Thank you for all your input. Compression is fine, and the fuse was replaced and new coil. I’m going to get a thermostat just to be sure although they said it was not needed.

[vbertone]

Thank you all, replaced the coil, fuse and spark plug and started right up. The shop said the plug was shot. I just had the plugs replaced one year ago at the same shop. Compression was fine btw. I will be replacing the thermostat soon but money was tight. ran some temps with it on the scanner and it looked good.

[pgill]

That is great news!!!!

Note: for the S80 removing the Thermostat is not trivial (it may be easier on the 3.0 Turbo vs 3.2 but its not trivial)

Here is a picture of my Thermostat for my 2010 S80 after I removed it

Failed_thermostat.jpg (55.93 KiB) Viewed 1280 times

One last thought.

The ignition coil failed for a reason

- Possibly cracking of the insulation due to thermal cycling

- Possibly due to insulation failure due to thermal overload from a failed Thermostat

- Possibly due to Electrical Over Stress due to a faulty Alternator (This is what Jimmy57 pointed out)



So the good news is that you fixed the broken part but unfortunately you can't be sure that you have the root cause

If I were in your position and I read what Jimmy wrote then I would check the AC ripple current of the Alternator and verify the output of the Alternator and change the Thermostat.


http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf



Good Luck

Paul

[vbertone]

Update, thermostat changes and you were right. It was in bad shape. Shop stated it basically fell apart when they took it out. So likely one of the issues. Thanks again

[pgill]

Let us know if you have any further Ignition coil problems

I am glad to hear that you got it sorted out.

And I am not surprised that your Thermostat had failed.

For my 2008 LR2 (with the Volvo 3.2 6 cylinder) my Thermostat cam out in one piece but it failed about 5 minutes after removal

For my 2010 S80 (with the Volvo 3.2 6 cylinder) the Thermostat was already broken but the car seemed to run fine

Take care

Paul

PS now I need to check the Ripple current for both of my alternator's (I never ignore Jimmy's advice, he has worked on many of the 3.0T and 3.2 engines and as far as I can tell he is the MVS subject matter expert for what can and does go wrong with our engines)

[abscate]

he is the MVS subject matter expert for what can and does go wrong with our engines

he is the real deal and sees the esoteric failures as well as the mundane "I drove it for four hours with the coolant light on, is it ok?"

[victorhvasconcellos]

Hey guys!
I'm Victor, I live in Brazil and I had the exact same problem as # 5 ignition coils melted yesterday in my 2010 Volvo XC60 T6.
I did the repair myself, changed the coil and fuse, following all the tips and it worked!
Thank you immensely and congratulations for the content ...
Next step, I'm going to look at the thermostatic valve.

[Xavif319]

Where were the fuses for this ? I have a 2010 cc70 T6 and my #1 coil melted and won’t starts it just cranks over and over. Help please.

[Xavif319]

Where were the fuses for this ? I have a 2010 cc70 T6 and my #1 coil melted and won’t starts it just cranks over and over. Help please.