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2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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vtl
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Re: 2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover

Post by vtl »

It could be oil pan is leaking. I had mine resealed this fall, because I saw wetness in a few spots around the seam. 2005, but with 220k mi. It definitely had more wetness on passenger side.

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

vtl wrote: 30 Jan 2020, 14:14 My 02 V70 had a resonating vibration sound between 1400-1600 RPMs. Fixed with a new VVT hub.
It too has resonating sound around 1400RPM -- prolonged in R gear.
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

xHeart wrote: 01 Feb 2020, 09:18 It too has resonating sound around 1400RPM -- prolonged in R gear.
Replace hub :)

I found my old video, listen at ~23 s:

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Post by xHeart »

OMG vtl! ~23sec is exactly the match.
Our 2001 V70XC is same Volvo Nautic Blue Metallic, code 417 -- genetic maybe.
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Post by xHeart »

After reading several discussions across Volvo forums on the topic of camshaft seal and VVT, cn90 says in an exchange with Jordan:
Large oil leak after replacing exhaust camshaft (cvvt) seal - help needed!
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc9 ... 251/page2/

#1: Oil leak from cam seals will usually pool BEHIND the INNER Timing over and deposits way down below the cover itself.
#2: Oil leak from the VVT Hub is way more serious, it can pool directly on the timing gear/timing belt itself = not good!

Along with exhaust hub resonating at 1200-1400RPM, I'm experiencing scenario #1, AND warned of scenario #2 is likely to happen soon.

Now the tasks of replacing exhaust hub, cam seals, and oil pump service will take me a month to prepare and a week or more to DIY... few questions:

1) can I drive the car for 30-60 days?
2) what is the best source for used tools such as cam lock, ECU removal, counter-hold for harmonic balancer/pulley, what else -- buy VS loan?
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Post by xHeart »

oragex wrote: 30 Jan 2020, 09:27 That would be good to listen with the hood open, may even use a hose at the ear approached carefully away from rotating belt/pulleys. I'm thinking maybe the tensioner is not adjusted on cold engine ?
Not sure how to load an .mp4 file. Here it is... same tapping sound from two locations...
Open hood:
IMG_0752.MOV
(11.73 MiB) Downloaded 141 times
Underneath the carriage:
IMG_0753.MOV
(6.44 MiB) Downloaded 221 times
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

xHeart wrote: 02 Feb 2020, 10:50 Now the tasks of replacing exhaust hub, cam seals, and oil pump service will take me a month to prepare and a week or more to DIY... few questions:

1) can I drive the car for 30-60 days?
2) what is the best source for used tools such as cam lock, ECU removal, counter-hold for harmonic balancer/pulley, what else -- buy VS loan?
I did 3 pulleys on 3 Volvo 5 cylinder engines using only electric impact wrench. Never needed counter-hold.

Any Chinese Volvo camlock tool is sufficient. I have one, it was totally fine for the camshaft seals job.

ECU removal tool is not strictly needed, but it is very handy to have one anyways. I remove ECM and TCM even for headlight bulb replacement, 'cause it takes 30 seconds :)

You may need to jack up engine slightly on the passenger side for the exhaust hub, the space is pretty tight there.

I don't know what is resonating exactly. Hub itself - ok, exhaust valves - not ok. What happens if you disconnect VVT solenoid? Does resonating sound go away?

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Post by vtl »

xHeart wrote: 02 Feb 2020, 12:38 Underneath the carriage:
IMG_0753.MOV
Wow! May I suggest a hole in exhaust? Either in flex section or burnt exhaust manifold gasket.

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Post by xHeart »

vtl wrote: 02 Feb 2020, 18:07 Wow! May I suggest a hole in exhaust? Either in flex section or burnt exhaust manifold gasket.
A quick check last night after the Chiefs win, it appears, flex is part of catalytic converter.

Image
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- Pete -
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Post by - Pete - »

Flex pipe & cat are one piece assemblies (aka downpipe) & probably not worth trying to cut & weld. Could probably source one from a scrap yard but might not last very long. You’d need to make sure it is off an AWD car as the FWD ones are different.

New decent catted “performance high flow” DP’s run ~$5-650. Catless DP’s about $100 less.
2001 V70XC 200k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k

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