The AutoRx Thread....Results and how it's going with it.

dasapir · Post by **dasapir** » 06 Jan 2007, 19:36

Luketrash, though I am sure you are aware of what the Auto Rx site states about oil types and that it is okay to use the castrol at this point with auto rx, however, after you change your oil and oil filter for the washout phase, they recommend that you use only natural "dino" oil not synthetic or semi-synthetic oils. According to the information the semi-synthetic oil will prevent the auto rx from cleaning well [[quote]i]Q: Why do you recommend non-synthetic oil for the rinse" phase of the application?
A: We recommend simple, non-synthetic oil (do not use-semi synthetic or high-mileage oil) for this important step in the Auto-Rx

Post by **luketrash** » 06 Jan 2007, 20:34

castrol gtx is dino lube. Though, I can remember when it was half the price it is now.. It almost seems as expensive as synthetic...

I initially bought Mobil One for the car, but since it was using oil and the PCV work hadn't been done, I figured I'd save my 25 bucks and save it for later, when I put the GTX in instead.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Jan 2007, 20:51

In awhile, from what I understand, you could take your oil filter out, cut it in half and it will be full of gunk. The AutoRx at work! Castrol GTX would have been the oil of my choice for this same treatment. Guess you have to stick with it through the rinse phase too and save the Mobil-1 for when it's all complete.

Post by **luketrash** » 06 Jan 2007, 22:04

My 960 is the only car I've ever run synthetic oil in actually. When I bought it, it had valve tick that would go away if I beat on the car at over 4kRPM in low gear. The synthetic oil worked to cure that issue, and it doesn't leak out of that car for whatever reason.

It's day 2 with 60 miles on the car and I already notice that compression and/or combustion are sorting themselves out. I don't know if the engine is making its 168hp, but I'm feeling at least 140

It use to be a chore to get the car up to 65mph at the onramp to the highway at near my home, but I hit it easily tonight with some back-in-the-seat accelleration.. This stuff is all subtle, but it's happening.

The only real noise my engine makes seems to be the fuel injectors ticking. It's not valve tick, and you can feel it if you put your hand on the fuel rail.. I'm hoping that adding injector cleaner can help that out. I'm planning on changing the fuel filter shortly, because I have no idea when it was last done, and I'm wondering if the car would get any more pep with a new filter.

The good news is that I've finally passed that equilibrium point where I won't feel bad selling my 960, or wishing I still had it around. The 850 is just as pleasant to drive now that I've sorted out the tires/suspension and now the engine.

I noticed this tonight after I got home. The pamphlet that came with my shipment mentions Russ B of Volvospeed... At least I'm guessing that's who it is since his car has 5 cylinders

dripcandles · Post by **dripcandles** » 06 Feb 2007, 18:46

I am getting ready to change my oil on my recent 98V70XC acquisition. It has 193KMI on it, and I dont know what oil was used over its life, but I belive it was regular non-synth oil. Being a turbo, and having high miles I felt like it might be good to switch to synthetic oil with possibly adding something like autorx to clean out the crud inside the engine, so I started doing research about how to go about this. I found a very informative site at http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html , where he talks about using a "flushing oil" to clean the engine before making the switch to synthetic. I also looked at Mobil's site where they suggest either using full synthetic and changing the oil at a reduced milage of half what you regularily do, as it will strip old crud, then on the next change make it 3/4, then regular intervals after that. They also have a Mobil 1 high mileage oil out now, and that one says it has a higher viscosity formula thst helps reduce oil burn-off and leakage. It also says it has extra anti-wear additive. I am a bit worried about adding something like AutoRx because when additives make the seals swell, it also can cause them to seal great for awhile but then let go in a bad way. I hope to hear more updates from those of you who are going the autorx route. I think I will try adding half regular oil, and half synth, or use a blend, and see what that does being in there for 2000 miles, and also see what comes out at the next change.

Post by **luketrash** » 06 Feb 2007, 21:20

I'm 750 miles into it.. It's butt-ass cold in Iowa, so there is no way to tell if the car is running right when it's -10F...

I've been leaving black rings on my white garage door when I start up my 850.. It doesn't smell oily, so I'm not sure what it is yet.. It did that before Auto RX though. Probably all the oil that gets sucked into the intake manifold..

dripcandles · Post by **dripcandles** » 22 Feb 2007, 08:14

Just thought I would give an update to what I did with regards to oil. I went with 2 quarts of mobil 1 synthetic, and 4 quarts of castrol gtx. I am amazed at how much the oil has become darkened after only 350 miles, so I know its cleaning. I was a bit uneasy about using the mix of oils I did as some people didn't recommend it, but there were others who did. I figured since there were synth-dino blends available, what could be the harm? My intent is to go with 1 more quart of synthetic each oil change until it gets full synth. I realize that cleaning the engine wont do anything for help with the leaks some of you are experiencing, and I am interested to hear what tose of you on autorx learn, but I am a believer in finding the cause of the leaks when possible rather than using "engine rebuilder in a can". I just did the pcv system replacement and that addressed the oil dipsticks puffing out smoke issue, and I fell much better about knowing the rear main and other seals should stay put for awhile longer.

On a side note, I was at Valvoline instant oil change getting my inspection done and while in the waiting room I saw there were selling a $40 gallon bottle of "motor flush" by Valvoline. They sell it as an engine treatment to remove all deposits. I read the back of the bottle and where it lists the contents it is just mineral oil. I wonder if anyone has ever tried adding straight mineral oil and letting it idle for 10 minutes, then change the oil as normal. I also noticed that at the auto parts store they sell a quart of "motor flush" and again all that is is Kerosene, as listed on the bottles contents.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 22 Feb 2007, 08:52

I would avoid all solvents including kerosene. I do know that all who have tried AutoRx (that I'm aware of) have had very good results...it gets mixed in with dino-oil and not synthetic.

dripcandles · Post by **dripcandles** » 22 Feb 2007, 08:58

I agree about solvents being questionable as they might do harm to seals and other parts, but the mineral oil is not a solvent, it is just a thinner oil? At least it stated on the bottle it is not a solvent and it will not do any harm to anything, other than it might dislodge big chunks of crud that block oil passages and seize your engine.

larryh · Post by **larryh** » 22 Feb 2007, 18:26

but I am a believer in finding the cause of the leaks when possible rather than using "engine rebuilder in a can".

me too!
but finding the cause is easy. replacing a rear main seal is NOT!

my pcv is functioning properly but i had a little seep from the rear main. considering my options, i thought it would be worth it to give auto-rx a try.
..it's only been 3000 miles, but the bottom of my car is dry as can be. i'll let you know if the leak comes back. i think the website said the seals get "cleaned" as opposed to swelled up? so maybe it will last. we'll see...