120K 3.2 R transmission fluid change?

[pgill]

The vehicle leveling is only needed before you remove the T40 with the engine running after you fill the transmission

If you can get to the T40 with all four tires on the ground then do that. (assuming that you are working on level ground)

If you lift the front you must also lift the back. (also right side and left side)

This is only necessary for confirming that the amount of fluid in the transmission is correct.

Note: I am doing this in my garage using Jack Stands, if you have a hydraulic lift (or a pit) then ignore the leveling and just raise it up or get under it.



For me I ignore all of the above and I just replace the exact amount I remove.



Good luck

Paul

[ylwgto]

gonna do this this weekend.
sorry to belabor the point, but is the 3309 fluid the right stuff for this tranny ('09 3.2 with the 6 speed)?
if I drive the car up onto front ramps then drain, will I get more fluid out or is it all stuck in the converter?
thanks

[MoVolvos]

So I found this:

http://www.timthurber.com/volvo-xc90-3- ... c-6-speed/

2. related to above, I do not have VIDA/DICE and therefore cannot A. do a fluid calibration for correct level (can probably get close with the drain at temp method) and B. reset the transmission fluid counter, which appears to be pretty important when a full flush is done?

I'm mostly concerned with not being able to reset the counter.

Thoughts?

Flush method - Measuring and VIDA




Basically the same trans w/2 extra gears


At first sign of bubbles shut it down or the 2 quart at a time method. This is just a clearer video of what you will be doing but not on a Volvo.


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[pgill]

gonna do this this weekend.
sorry to belabor the point, but is the 3309 fluid the right stuff for this tranny ('09 3.2 with the 6 speed)?
if I drive the car up onto front ramps then drain, will I get more fluid out or is it all stuck in the converter?
thanks

That's what I use for my 2010 S80 and my 2008 LR2

The transmission manufacturer did change to the world spec later but for a 2009 the one you are looking at will be fine.

According to FCP Volvo switched over to the other fluid in late 2010 (after vin 568000)

Take care

Paul

[MoVolvos]

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Approved For:

Toyota/Lexus Type T-III, Type T-IV, Type W
Volvo Part No. 1161521, 1161540/116164 (All 3 Are JWS3309)

https://www.amazon.com/HAVOLINE-2265364 ... 246&sr=8-3

I used this and it's worked great in 3 different makes including a Volvo. I will order transfluid from FCP next time however for the Lifetime Warranty as it's already time to flush one of the cars (2 years).

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[ylwgto]

Thanks!

So did you do 2 back to back drain/fills like in the FCP video or a full flush?

I'm likely going to do a drain/fill, but wonder if one is enough or should I do 2 rounds straight away?

great info, thank you!

[MoVolvos]

Thanks!

So did you do 2 back to back drain/fills like in the FCP video or a full flush?

I'm likely going to do a drain/fill, but wonder if one is enough or should I do 2 rounds straight away?

great info, thank you!

I have always done full flushes and never had a problem even on a 98 S70 T5 with 230K miles when I acquired it. It was coffee with a tinge of silver and was little sluggish. I can never wrap my head around the idea of pouring a 3rd of muddy water out and adding clean water to slowly make it less muddy. Prefer to pour all the mud out and pour clean water into the container.

The drain and fill vs flush can be a hotly debated topic but I have never seen a write up where someone said my trans pooped after a flush, it is always I heard that... regardless both methods are used and each swear and stand by their preference.

As always do what is comfortable for yourself. Although I have never had a problem with many high mileage and weak transmissions that's not to guarantee yours won't have issues. Some say if it does it probably was going to have issues sooner or later regardless.

Since all my cars have dipsticks unlike the TF-80SC it would best to just count quarts during the flush or drain and fill till the fluid is clear. Bring to operating temp and add or allow the trans to drain as in the videos.

2009 - Very detailed drain and fill method. @15:00 He is comparing clarity of the drains. The 3rd drain is almost the same as the last which he calls level drain or flat on the ground (EDIT: it should have been on the ground but was still on the ramp in the front). The 3rd and last drain looks about the same and not close enough for me to the new fluid.

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[ylwgto]

Did the drain and fill procedure x 3 this evening. I only got about 3.2q per drain, so that is what I put back each time. The fluid was black and not-to-fresh smelling, but was not burnt. I got pretty close to nice red after the 3rd drain. Immediate improvement in manual shifts between P, N and D and R (smoother) and MUCH smoother shifting between gears under driving conditions. Feel much better about the tranny. Thanks!!

Side note, should I be able to move the front transmission torque rod by hand? The rubber bushings on each end do not appear torn, but the center section is a bit wobbly by hand. I do notice a torque bump when shifting to R especially. Think it's shot?

[xHeart]

Side note, should I be able to move the front transmission torque rod by hand? The rubber bushings on each end do not appear torn, but the center section is a bit wobbly by hand. I do notice a torque bump when shifting to R especially. Think it's shot?

Driving with a hot transmission fluid makes sense.
The transmission torque rod has a relative lifespan. 100,000 miles is its maximum life.

[ylwgto]

Thanks
I replaced the lower torque strut (it was completely shot) with an IPD unit and the upper engine torq strut with a hutchinson. Much better now!