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Massive Fuel Leak Need Help / Fuel Line Question 98 V70

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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98V70T5
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Re: Massive Fuel Leak Need Help / Fuel Line Question 98 V70

Post by 98V70T5 »

Update...

I determined the hose in question is the return line. I also determined what I suspected is not a hole either. The rubber looks like it has been chewed away, and the black shiny appearance is actually the hard nylon line which I confirmed. The actual leak is on the opposite side of this suspected hole.

I made a video of the fuel spraying out from that area of the hose. I will try to find a free site to host the video. My best guess is during the two weeks the car sat, something must have chewed into the line because the car was driving perfectly prior to this.

How would you repair this? Does the tank need to be dropped to run a new factory line? Can a splice be made? What size diameter is the return line?

I have included some pictures from the video. You can see the amount of gasoline being leaked highlighted below. Car is undriveable. If you look at the one picture does that look like bite marks to you? That is not a picture of the leak though. The hole is on the other side, and I didn't get a picture of it due to exposure issues with the camera. Will try tomorrow.

Thanks
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98V70T5
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Post by 98V70T5 »

Found a host, here's the video. I cycled the key briefly, twice:


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Post by abscate »

It’s a spongy rubber sheath with a hard nylon? line inside which carries the pressure.

There are brass barb repair kits where you heat the nylon with a hair dryer (no flames please) push the barb in, and oetiker clamp the joints. Details in this thread, I used the repair kit to go onto the rollover valve barb, you need a brass barb to bridge the critter hole.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77135&hilit=dorman+ ... e&start=10
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Post by foggydogg »

98V70T5 wrote: 02 Jul 2021, 03:21 Found a host, here's the video. I cycled the key briefly, twice:

I had the same problem Steve had on my T5 auction car, it had tooth scrapes which I scientifically determined were squirrel (not really, I just guessed.) I used the Dorman barbs too, cut back the rubber chafe guard far enough to get a good grip on the hard plastic line. Hair dryer/heat gun works to make that line slightly more cooperative if used carefully. You may need to trim a small amount of material to make room for the center part of the barb, and it pays to treat all those line gingerly, because Old Age.
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Post by volvolugnut »

Death to all rodents that chomp on our cars!

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98V70T5
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Post by 98V70T5 »

What size diameter is the return line? 8mm / 5/16 or 10mm / 3/8?

Thanks!

98V70T5
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Post by 98V70T5 »

I found a mobile mechanic to come. Which kit should I buy? I don't know the size of the return line 🤷‍♂️

Can 3/8" Oiteker clamps be used on 5/16"? Local store only stocks that size.
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Post by foggydogg »

98V70T5 wrote: 02 Jul 2021, 23:26 I found a mobile mechanic to come. Which kit should I buy? I don't know the size of the return line 🤷‍♂️

Can 3/8" Oiteker clamps be used on 5/16"? Local store only stocks that size.
My fuel line was only invaded at one point of entry, so I only bought the barbs. It's been too long ago , I'll try to dig around and see if I can find the package, but 5/16 sticks in my head.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
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00 V70xc x2, both now dead
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56 445 Duett basket project
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Post by abscate »

If timing will work put Vernier caliper on hardline , after trimming the soft part back, post it up here, and I’ll pop some oetikers that will work inthe “ post”
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Post by Chuck W »

Just buy both to be sure. They're $6 each, and you should be able to return the one you don't need.
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