Rescuing Geronimo the 2000 V70

[scot850]

The ETM/throttle body should interchange, but the auto and manual trans difference I can't answer. AS the trans is controlled by the TCU it may be ok. Other than removing the ETM main cable (generally a real pain, but try cleaning and lubing with silicon oil first.

If you connect the 'new' ETM without actually removing the old one, switch the ignition on and it whines and the butterfly moves it is talking to the ECU. Whether it will work with the different trans I don't know. Even in that state not fitted you can see if any of the dash light go out.

Neil.

[FireFox31]

If you connect the 'new' ETM without actually removing the old one, switch the ignition on and it whines and the butterfly moves it is talking to the ECU.

Thanks for the tip. Are you suggesting I unplug the wire for the existing ETM but leave it bolted to the intake, then plug in the new ETM wire but leave it on the ground? Can I turn on the engine in that state? Should I see the butterfly move in relation to when I press the gas pedal?

I'm willing to unbolt the existing ETM and bolt the new one in place. What I'm nervous about is finding and unplugging the ETM wire. abscate says it's by the starter (I think). On my clean engine, I couldn't find it, and Geromino's engine is covered in oil.

Your mention of "whine" reminded me: With the key in position II, a very shrill whine comes from the engine compartment. I think I've heard a much lesser version of that whine from engine compartments before (P80 and P2), but never like this. Is that the ETM whine?

[scot850]

Yes you can just connect it to the existing connector to that connects to the cable for the current ETM. You cannot play with the gas pedal, but if you hear the whine it will be from the ETM itself. If you have someone turn the key to POS II on the ignition you can watch the butterfly move in the throttle body. If it does that and then stops it is most likely compatible.

If you look at your picture of the engine bay you posted, if you look directly below the ETM and the starter there should be a shiny (when cleaned) thin piece of stainless steel clipped over the square of the wiring harness. The connector is attached on the underside of that.

Neil.

[FireFox31]

Great, thanks. I'll try this in the next few days.

[abscate]

We should have pictures of this in the Fora somewhere.

On a P80, the connector is routed to the rear of the starter motor. If you still have the small metal bracket on the rear of the starter, the connector is held captive by that and you cannot remove the ETM

You should be able to separate the connector, hook up the test ETM, and then…


Key position II

click , whine for 8 seconds, THUNK, relative silence.

If you hear that, you’ve got a 99.44% chance if a working combination

[scot850]

What I said!

Neil.

[FireFox31]

The used throttle body worked! As instructed, I connected it electrically without mounting it. It clicked and hummed as expected. After 18 years with this ETM, I finally know what it's doing when it powers up.


The throttle body wiring harness was rather easy to disconnect. It's in front of the starter, easily accessible from above by two carefully placed hands. It is affixed to the metal plate, but can be disconnected where it sits by pressing the tab on the right half and pulling the left half to the left.

[scot850]

Well that is great news! Now that you have tested it, next step is to install and see if it improves the way the car runs. Then onto the next challenge!

[FireFox31]

With the new throttle body, Geromino idles smoothly, revs easily to 3000 RPM, and doesn't surge after a quick tap on the gas. Its pulleys sound horrible, so they'll all be replaced with the timing belt. I used a stethoscope on the aftermarket alternator pulley shaft. Should it sound that rough?

The only codes remaining are P0717, P0722, P0768, P1618 (pending), P1671. I'll look in to them eventually. The owner said the orange up arrow on the dash has been flashing for a while yet still drove fine. I'll check the transmission fluid and test drive the car to check its shifting.

The dashboard ETS light is off, but now the parking brake and ABS lights are on, joining coolant level, check engine, and service. Why would the ABS light come on while I was trying to remove the brakes?

The next challenge is breaks. Any advice for how to free the pads rusted to the rotor? That's penetrating oil on the rotor, having tried desperately to free it.

The front suspension is more rusty than any I've seen. Is it more than just surface rust? How much of this should I reasonably replace?

The power steering rack sounds funny. When I pull one of the front wheels (moving them both and the steering wheel), I hear squishy sounds from the rack. I don't think a healthy car sounds like that. The power steering fluid is quite low. Maybe it's trapped air?

Ultimately, I want to find any deal breakers before any money is spent. What else might send this car to the junkyard because it's too difficult or expensive to repair, and how can I find these things?

[abscate]

Top off the PS fluid and make sure you don’t have leaks , the rack is a big job and could kill her.

That suspension is gnarly but if the struts and springs are doing their job that can wait for the last step when you know there are no deal breakers. I think rack and transmission are your last two big things.