Running issues

[sirjerram]

Morning Jacob

(Translation for the Colonies, binning a car doesn’t involve programming, but the junkyard instead)

You can’t use the temperature gauge as a test for the coolant sensor. It’s a very coarse measurement tool, I think I documented it here somewhere. The ECU has to precisely meter the fuel according to engine temperature, injecting 3-5x more fuel when cold than when hot.

Make those resistance measurements in ice water and hot tap water!

Grabbed screen shots , you can use titles to search fir more info

Hello mate,

You say make the restistance measurements in ice water and hot tap water, are you saying to disconnect the sensor from the thermostat? Do I check the resistance at the plug or on the sensor itself?

Cheers,

Jacob

For these measurements you remove the sensor and bring it into the kitchen. Be careful unhooking the connector, it is notoriously crumbly. You'll lose a little coolant unless you drain some out. Check R across the plug socket.

I like to use boiling water for the hot (100 ˚C) measurement. As the water cools you can check some intermediate temps too if you have a thermometer nearby.

The fact the gauge gets to around the 3 o'clock would suggest the ECT is working, but I would still check the resistance values and connector as this will also affect the engine cooling fan operation.

I would then check the throttle flap and cable are lubed as suggested and we can go from there. The 'normal' idle speed should be in the 850-900 RPM range.

Neil.

Hello Neil,

I'll do the tests on the ECT sensor and will lube up the cable and throttle plate, would aerosol White lithium be best or a tub of Molly greese?

Cheers,

Jacob

Best way to service the throttle plate is to pull off the plastic tubing and clean the metal surfaces of intake snorkel and flap with carb cleaner and rags. I've never followed cleaning with grease or lube, I think that might just attract grime and gum it back up. You can check for smooth operation by hand once it is cleaned. Be careful to not get carb cleaner into the TPS, a little black box sensor mounted on the underside of the throttle. One way to ensure that is to remove the TPS before the cleaning job but you can leave it if you're careful.

I've never lubed the throttle cable, seems a good idea that white lithium grease would work for, that's a common way to service bike cables. May want to get the cable out of the sheath to do it thoroughly.

Hello mate,

I'll go disconnect it and give it a try with the water. I'll let you know what the results are, I've managed to get the Diagnostics module to work but can't for the life of me remember how to clear the codes.

On diagnostic port A2 i managed to pull code

122 - Air temperature sensor signal absent or faulty.
223 - Idle air control valve signal absent or faultt.

On diagnostic port A3 I managed to pull codes

444 - Acceleration sensor signal
213 - Throttle switch signal (Wide open)
214 - Ignition RPM sensor signal erratic, absent or faulty
142 - injector No. 3 faulty signal

I'll try resetting the codes if I can remember them and then go for a drive, I suspect the codes are there due to changing said parts.

Hipe this helps,

Jacob

[erikv11]

See what you codes come back after clearing and post them up.

I'd definitely clean the idle air control (IAC) valve too, they get gummed up. You want to spray carb cleaner inside it and shake vigorously to free up the inner mechanism, you'll be able to feel it rotating. Protect your eyes though!

[abscate]

Jacob

Clean that idle air control valve first. I forgot about that as the 1999- don’t use them anymore.

They get buggered up with oil over time and need cleaning every few years