Fuel pump blew the hose off quick-connect fuel line fitting

[cn90]

- Quick Connect: below is a generic photo just to illustrate the concept of quick connect...

- The claws are there to latch onto the ridge (on the fuel filter nipple) to prevent the connector from
sliding away.

- The O-ring(s) are what seal the line from leaking.

- The key thing during removal: ROTATE the connector to unseat the bond between the O-ring(s) and the nipple,
then gently squeeze the Volvo connector to undo the claws (shown is the push-lock type, so you need a tool to push inside to undo the claws)...

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[paul1149]

The hose in question has a straight connector at the pump and a 90d at the filter. The advantage of making my own is that the parts will be delivered tomorrow.

[paul1149]

> The key thing during removal: ROTATE the connector to unseat the bond between the O-ring(s) and the nipple,
then gently squeeze the Volvo connector to undo the claws (shown is the push-lock type, so you need a tool to push inside to undo the claws)..

The connector at the back of the filter was really rusted, as was the whole filter and its bracket. I squeezed, I rotated, to no avail. When I finally twisted the filter off, leaving a stub of its pipe in the connector, I saw that I could squeeze so much that the part I was squeezing began to hold onto the ridge. And nothing in between would loosen the pipe. Finally I gave it up. The road salt around here really does a number on any steel. I really need to get a new filter bracket, or figure out how to reinforce the one I have.

[paul1149]

Small update. Amazon failed to deliver some parts on time, so that delayed the job til today. But in the meantime I began to question the hose I had bought for the job, because it didn't explicitly say it was adequate for fuel injection. So I ordered new hose which did, which should come tomorrow.

Meanwhile I modified a wood clamp to make it work as a quick connector press. I tried it on the hose I have and it worked fine, heating the tube with a hair dryer, but without using any lubricant to ease the process, which I think weakens the joint.

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I think a metal clamp over the joint will still be required due to the pressure.

Now I know what happened to the original hose. It has a rigid tube core which broke near the pump, leaving the flexible outer rubber to slide off it. What I thought was the barrel of the fitting was actually part of the hose itself. It must have gotten brittle over the years. That makes me wonder about the rest of the original hose. Probably will be ok unless it is disturbed.

So I await the new hose and decent working weather.

[cn90]

This is what I have learned about hose:

- Warm the hose up with hair dryer as you said. In the summer, leave it sit in open sun for 1/2h etc.
- Then use appropriate socket and some oil, slight enlarge the hose bit by bit until it slides smoothly into the barb fitting.
- Don't ever heat the barb fitting.
- Then a clamp is a good idea, don't overdo it. OTOH, factory setup has no clamp! But I am sure they heated the female end and slide it in, when cooled down, the hard plastic binds to the barb fitting very well. But I hate the factory setup.

PS: This is the same trick (heating the female end) used by professional installer of undergound sprinkler system for the yard at home...

[erikv11]

An excellent lube for assembling rubber hoses/fittings etc is rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol). Makes the rubber vey slippery, then evaporates. Will not affect the rubber at all. Also great for stubborn silicone hoses.

[paul1149]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But wouldn't any lubricant be trapped between the embedded barbs?

Anyway, I have success. The new hose came today. It was 50% harder than the other hose to work with with the connectors, but that's a good thing. My jig didn't work on the elbow, but I was able to finish it by hand. The jig did work perfectly on the straight connector.

I measured the hose out and added one inch, and it still ended up a bit more taught than I would like. But it will be ok.

Those oetiker clamps seem to really grip well. There wasn't a single drop from either connector.

Thanks to everyone for the help, as I'm new to this. I think this particular chapter can come to a close.

[cn90]

Please post the exact PN for the:
- Barb fitting (is it Dorman brand?)
- Which fuel hose: brand, size...

to help future readers to build the fuel hose themselves.

[paul1149]

The hose was "5/16 Fuel Line - NBR Transmission Cooler High-Pressure Injection Hose"

Connectors were different brands, along the order of "Fuel Line Quick Connector 5/16 Bundy Female to Barb Elbow Straight for 5/16 Steel to 5/16 Nylon Tubing, Pack of 2".

Direct Amazon links are not printing here.

I used amazon only because of fast delivery and I was house-bound without the car working. I'm not pushing any brand. The important thing is to get hose which is fuel injector able. The first hose I got was more for small engines.

[abscate]

An excellent lube for assembling rubber hoses/fittings etc is rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol). Makes the rubber vey slippery, then evaporates. Will not affect the rubber at all. Also great for stubborn silicone hoses.

I love learning new stuff on Fora. I did not know this