Just to confirm, the open you measure when warm is with the D connector unplugged and when you're measuring between the D connector D3 and D4 pins and the SLT solenoid, which would mean the open is somewhere between the valve body wiring harness D connector side and the SLT solenoid, is this correct? If this is the case then unless you find something obvious externally like a problem with the D connector or a obvious bad wire there's a good chance you may need to drop the subframe again and get the VB cover off. The color code wiring difference is a mystery at this point but I think you're measuring the SLT correctly and you're seeing the problem you're getting an error code for.greffel wrote: ↑02 Jun 2021, 14:11 * 5,5 ohm with cold engine
* and open connection when warm
Seems to act like this, at least from these two days of testing.
Have never seen this problem before not on the old valve body or the new one.
If possible I would like to not drop the subframe again and remove the oil pan to the valve body.
We all know that the solenoids can become sticky when warm but I have never heard of a coil that break and then cool down and fixes it self.
I'm really interested where the wires change color, just to see if there is a bad contact in that spot.
Must be where I put a red circle in the photo.
Like you mentioned a solenoid coil failure in the solenoid is a rare event, it could be a bad connector or a broken wire that's affected by the heat. A sticking solenoid is a different problem that the signal missing problem you're having.
About the 3-4 shift flare problem, what's ID mark on the servo pin?
Edit, adding picture of valve body wiring harness and suspected junction where the wire color coding changes.
