What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[nickelghandi]

I began returning to stage 0 on my 1998 S70 GLT after two years of almost no driving. More vacuum leaks found and fixed since yesterday, new battery, oil change after a few miles warm up and swish and spit with sea foam. Found many problems....

1. P0705 PNP switch code. Running through gears did not help and I am stuck in 3rd gear when in Drive. Clearing the code fixes until next startup and shift into D.
2. Blend doors not working at all. Inspection reveals cracked plastic arm components. CAD and 3D printer might fix.
3. Heat control knob for driver's side fell off when turned.... more 3D printing I guess..
4. Driver's side door no longer opens from the inside. eBay or junk yard for a replacement.
5. Coolant smell inside cabin if heat is on. Suspect heater core although carpet is dry.

[scot850]

1) - Assuming it was ok when last used, then it might be worth going through the basics. Check oil level when warm. Is there mayonnaise in the oil? Could be condensation or possibly the oil cooler in the radiator has failed. Check any electrical connections and clean with contact cleaner. Has the shift override been used recently or previously? Is it stuck down? Is your ABS light on at all?

2) Blend doors - Seems weird all have broken. There was a rcent thread on the subject, including me working on my buddies 850 heating system. The blend doors have a rubber seal on them and long periods of no use can make them stick like glue. The servo motors then snap the shaft ends trying to turn them. The cold air arm is a cheak repair from Volvo. I believe they are still available:

https://www.volvocarstorontoparts.ca/p/ ... 08653.html

That is Canadian $$ so about 20c US

3) Do you have the ECC or MCC system? Strangely I have heard of the MCC knobs breaking but not the ECC. I have both if you are stuck.

4) Broken door actuator. Here you may be able to make a 3D repair. There is a plastic part that breaks inside. A junkyard working unit is easiest route. Can be a pain to get the actuator out. The is either a screw or a rivet on the back face of the door about half way down. Remove it and it allows the door guide to move making it much easier to remove the actuator.

5) Check under the carpet. It is rubber backed. Pull the carpet back behind the gas peddle and look upward at the casing of the heater core and look for evidence of dripping.

Good luck on getting your car back on the road!

Neil.

[DennisCA]

While waiting for parts I decided to try and clean up the intake manifold, used different cleaners, alkaline degreaser and regular degreaser as well as hot water.





I still can't get that last bit off but it's probably corrosion. I am thinking about trying a mild acid solution on the exterior. Citric acid most likely.

[abscate]

Those are hard to get shiny clean, indeed.

Here’s the best I could do with my T5

[scot850]

You could try aluminum polish to see if it removes any of that staining.

Neil.

[bmdubya1198]

I've seen somebody polish one before, it looked amazing. The only problem is the amount of work required to make it like that

[BlackBart]

Brake cleaner and typical strong solvents often stain raw aluminum black - very frustrating. I have been using a home brew cleaner of 2/3 vinegar and 1/3 Dawn liquid, heated up so it will mix. Shake it up in a spray bottle. Use stiff scrub brushes, brass brushes, and brass toothbrushes to scrub scrub scrub.

[454cid]

While waiting for parts I decided to try and clean up the intake manifold, used different cleaners, alkaline degreaser and regular degreaser as well as hot water.





I still can't get that last bit off but it's probably corrosion. I am thinking about trying a mild acid solution on the exterior. Citric acid most likely.

If that doesn't work, you could check to see if you have a shop locally that would "vapor blast" or "vapor hone" the intake for you. It's basically a wet media blast. I've had it done to some valve covers, but the shop I used hadn't perfected their procedure. I think most shops that get the really nice finish, usually use a dry glass bead first, then the wet blast. If you don't want to risk glass, then maybe look into soda blasting, but that won't look as nice.

[Sveedy]

I use throttle body cleaner and a plastic brush.

On a side note; what connects to this threaded opening on the underside of the intake ? Just to the left of the ETM if installed on the car.
I've never seen this car together, so I'm operating in the dark.

[bmdubya1198]

I use throttle body cleaner and a plastic brush.
IMG_20250208_161622357_HDR.jpg

On a side note; what connects to this threaded opening on the underside of the intake ? Just to the left of the ETM if installed on the car.
I've never seen this car together, so I'm operating in the dark.
IMG_20250208_161717067_HDR.jpg

That's the banjo bolt fitting for the PCV.