98 V70 trailer Topic is solved

[CIK7]

A couple other details currently in thought form.

I'm going to completely drop the fuel tank before any welding begins. I will likely flip the whole thing upside down so my friend can weld better in the exhaust tunnel (reinforcement beam) and on the side rails.

The other thought is that while the fuel tank is out, I might attempt to come up with an electric and flow line in order to allow fuel transfer from trailer to towing vehicle. Theoretically, the electrical line would be hooked up to the Volvo fuel pump, activated by a covered switch installed on a factory gang (switch blank) inside the trailer on the wall. The flow line would have three spring activated shutoff valves in case the fuel line disconnects. This will ensure both that the line doesn't just break and needs a repair and fuel cannot just spill out willy-nilly. One valve would be on the towing vehicle side, one in the middle where the hitch is, and one right at the beginning of the tongue by the wall. I'm pretty sure there's some sort of legality related stuff I have to figure out to get this approved for the road.

[volvolugnut]

I suggest not to have any connection from the trailer fuel tank to the tow vehicle. It just does not sound safe. Add a fuel pump to transfer trailer tank fuel to a can and manual refill of tow vehicle.
An accident with the trailer having a fuel line at the hitch could be a bad fire, even with shut off valves. We do not want a Ford Pinto incident.
volvougnut

[CIK7]

I suggest not to have any connection from the trailer fuel tank to the tow vehicle. It just does not sound safe. Add a fuel pump to transfer trailer tank fuel to a can and manual refill of tow vehicle.
An accident with the trailer having a fuel line at the hitch could be a bad fire, even with shut off valves. We do not want a Ford Pinto incident.
volvougnut

Makes sense.

[CIK7]

Update.

Made a template for how to cut the rest of the beams besides the side rails, which I already did.

[volvolugnut]

If I understand your notes, a single 2 x 3 tube about 46 inches long will be the tongue from trailer to hitch ball. I suggest a change to use 2 tubes angled back to the front of frame and wide spacing at the rear welds.
More tongue strength and rigidity all the way around. Harder to cut the parts and weld, but better. Most trailers have these twin tongue rails spreading to the rear.
volvolugnut

[CIK7]

If I understand your notes, a single 2 x 3 tube about 46 inches long will be the tongue from trailer to hitch ball. I suggest a change to use 2 tubes angled back to the front of frame and wide spacing at the rear welds.
More tongue strength and rigidity all the way around. Harder to cut the parts and weld, but better. Most trailers have these twin tongue rails spreading to the rear.
volvolugnut

The 46" center line is just a guide for me to draw the rest of the tongue, not for a steel Beam. The entire length of the tongue will be 46". The 44.25" for the outer and 41.5" for inner is for the beams that go from the side rail to the 15 inch beam that connects to the hitch coupler.

[CIK7]

Update

Drawing updated to show beam placement. Tonight I will cut at my house and provide a placement template with the beams. The two middle beams shown are going to be a few inches longer Im pretty sure. Theres a length calculation with those two that I'm struggling with. I don't know why. It's not exactly putting the numbers together, just that I can't get my gears to turn.

[volvolugnut]

Thanks for update. Angled members give good side strength - like when you back up and turn at the same time.
Trig calcs can be confusing if you don't do them often.
volvolugnut

[matthew1]

One does not go about drawing fighter jets on sidewalks as an adult. My goodness.

[volvolugnut]

I have heard more than one story of fabrication shops making just this kind of plans on the shop floor with chalk. These projects became successful.
volvolugnut